Nasty and Old
Toad 
What is that? Looks like oil that I found on my ancient Chevy Chevette!
Toad
you need to clean that stuff up and get your self Labelle no.106 plastic compatble grease , and Labelle no. 107 multi purpose oil also plastic compatible , this is what i use on my engines and cars . BEN
Well dam, I was going to use that LGB stuff but then again I can not order any more of it (HINT) so I guess I will try yours out!
BTW you have any suggestions on electrical grease?
Toad
The thing about conductive greases is they tend to mess up plastic. I’ve been using permatex anti-sieze compound, which you can get at any auto parts place. It’s highly conductive and very slippery. I’m a little worried that it will attack the plastic parts though. So far, so good. Do a search at the aristocraft forum for “journal boxes catastrophic failure.” There’s some interesting info. There was also a thread at MLS–I think it was in the beginner’s forum, on “conductive grease”
For metal on metal conductive parts, like where the power pickup pistons touch a wheel, I’ve been trying this stuff called “neo lube,” which is some kind of graphite suspended in a volatile fluid that evaporates. You just paint it on and then you get a surprisingly tough film of slippery conductive graphite
For gear grease and freight cars whels I’ve been usng hobbylinc white teflon grease–good stuff
Lownote Toones,
It is for the rail clamps. But now you said something about teflon, I used some food grade teflon grease on some gears once and did a great job! My mind just can not remember all this “low tech” stuff cause it’s gone…or it has never been there [:D]
Toad
For rail clamps I’d just get some of that permatex anti-sieze. It’s designed to conduct electricity and prevent corrosion. It’s metals in some kind of waterproof lube