i am considering modifying an SD40-2 to a Canadian style. many SD40-2’s on the HO market are based on US styling and i want a very accurate SD40-2 for the CPRail. i don’t want to have a museum-quality model (like with sound or DCC), just a simple DC analog control. i just need a starting place. what i need is a good runner to start. the paint i could do later. here are the questions…
what is the correct nose length for a canadian SD40-2?
are there any specific details that need to be added?
if there are any drive modifications needing changes and
will the model selected be able to run on 18 or 22 inch radius curves (considering my almost perfect trackwork)?
i think thats it. i will probably post later about the paint.
I am assuming the newest paint scheme you’ll want to go with is ‘first generation Action Red’ with the narrow stripes and the large multimark. The Athearn blue box version can be gotten cheaply, but the radiator grilles are not the right style for the era you want to model. But if you’re willing to live with that, then by all means, try and find an old blue box SD40-2. They run quite well, but the couplings and gears need breaking in.
Athearn also made the long ‘snoot’ nose SD40-2s, but in the prototype the ‘snoots’ were likely put into service by the mid-1970s. The long nose SD40-2s are equipped with remote control equipment so they can run as lead locos or mid-train helpers in ‘robot’ train service in the mountains.
I model CN and CP Rail circa 1974, and I painted a pair of SD40s for each railway. They are all Athearn blue box locos, and I numbered them as straight SD40s, not -2s. All I did was add enough details to make them look Canadian (bells, horns, radio antennae, and proper headlight castings). I run them on my home layout, which has 18" radius curves. I’ve had no problems with them.
If you’re thinking about painting your locos Action Red, avoid using Accupaint Action Red. Accupaint makes the worst shade of Action Red. It looks brown when coated with flat lacquer.
thanks aloco. i was going to consider using an Athearn BB SD40-2. i did some research and found that the SD40-2’s under the numbers 5565-5599 did not have the snoot nose (hehe why did they pick a name like that?) and instead had the regular nose with a brake wheel. as for the radiator grills, i can live with that. i am also glad that the -2 will run on 18" radius curves. maybe i should go to that website that has the photos and do more research and see what i have to apply.
Do yourself a big favor and buy Rail Canada Volume 3. If you want to start painting and bashing CPR units, this book is a must.
As per your SD40-2 question…you need to choose 2 things…
A specific unit (every SD40-2 had slight differences, and some have HUGE differences)
A specific time (aforementioned unit would change over time)
After this, I can help.
David B
PS
I look over at that other site that was mentioned above, and I must say that it is a good resource for what you are looking for. But I do caution you, they do make alot of mistakes in their models, and they are for the most part 3-foot models (they look good from 3 feet away). This includes mis-applied details, poor painting and brushed on weathering.
the unit i was considering was 5568 because it was in the first initial delivery of -2s. the timeframe would probably be from build date to 1977. a 5-year time.
Book can be from 30-50 bucks, depending on where you buy it. It covers all the paint scheme the CPR used on its diesels (before the twin flag scheme). It tells you everything you need to know about painting CP diesels.
Ill see if I can get some pics of that particular loco for you.
i was also wondering, how do decals work? i don’t know if i need to purchase just the decal or do i need other supplies? as for the -2, i will soon place the order for all the parts wanted.
here is another question. should i buy an undecorated unit or a pre-painted unit?
well, i have been answering your questions along with quite the number of other questions too. if there are any questions that you want me to answer, either reply to this thread or PM me. i might have missed a few but so far i have:
decided on the exact unit that i want to do
picked the timeframe
and 3) the paint scheme (which is the Large Multimark)
i have looked over this thread and answered all the questions i could find. i don’t like to keep people hanging waiting for an answer.
BTW where can i purchase an SD40-2 that is in stock?
Can you hold off on purchasing an SD40-2? I have a Bachmann DCC ready comming my way (it is somewhere in the mail) and it looks like a promising starting point for bashing (what you are about to do). If you want, we can do this SD40-2 build together…from first cut to finish.
You can find the Bachmann DCC SD40-2 for really cheap (I got mine for 40 dollars…make sure ou get the NEW run…you can tell by the fuel tank). Aparently the drive in it is very nice…
are you talking about just buying one or purchase one each?
as for the Bachmann model, it looks fairly accurate. it seems to also have the correct nose style i’m looking for (short with brake wheel). does it come DCC Ready or does it have a decoder installed? i’m asking this because i run an analog layout. if there is one in there, i could rip it out. there’s just a few modifications i want to do…
change the headlight position to match the prototype
change the multimark (should be a large MM)
find anything else that needs changing and
do a small amount of drybrushing AKA weathering.
these units will be fairly new for my timeframe so there should be not alot of weathering to do. i want to see how yours turns out David B.
You will have to do more than the 4 things you mentioned above. Let me address each point.
Yup, the light has to be relocated, and the exsisting holes need to be filed down and covered over with styrene. Then the proper bell has to be mounted in the proper place.
“Should” is a mis-nomer in the world of CP Rail. There is no ‘rule’ or ‘law’ when it comes to paint schemes. You will see a mix of all paint scheme in all eras. Even today you can still see a large multimark with 8" stripes and reflictive 5" circles.
Ill leave alone…
Weathering does not = drybrushing, drybrushing does not = weathering. Do not think that the best way or only way to weather something is through drybrushing. To be honest, I think that weathering by drybrushing never, ever looks good. It always looks “brushed on”. There are other options. One is to use chalks. These are brushed on and worked INTO the model. The other is with an airbrush. Some weathering cries out for an airbrush.
You will have to do more than the 4 things you mentioned above. Let me address each point.
Yup, the light has to be relocated, and the exsisting holes need to be filed down and covered over with styrene. Then the proper bell has to be mounted in the proper place.
“Should” is a mis-nomer in the world of CP Rail. There is no ‘rule’ or ‘law’ when it comes to paint schemes. You will see a mix of all paint scheme in all eras. Even today you can still see a large multimark with 8" stripes and reflictive 5" circles.
Ill leave alone…
Weathering does not = drybrushing, drybrushing does not = weathering. Do not think that the best way or only way to weather something is through drybrushing. To be honest, I think that weathering by drybrushing never, ever looks good. It always looks “brushed on”. There are other options. One is to use chalks. These are brushed on and worked INTO the model. The other is with an airbrush. Some weathering cries out for an airbrush.
Reform front handrails to fit new anticlimber(needs new stantions)
Replacing brake wheel with a non-molded on one
Sinclair antennas on roof of cab
Replace number boards with CPR ones (marker lamps)
New blower housing
CPR steps on all 4 corners (canadian steps are VERTICAL, american ones are stepped)
front pilot plate to match steps
Speed recoder on front truck
Relocate the horn to mid of rear hood (use photos for reference)
Replace rear radiator screens with appropriate ones
Winterization hatch
Roof piping (on some units, more extensive on others)
Rear plate pilot to match rear steps
Drill all holes for grab irons
remove rear light and replace with single sealed CPR light (requires filling with styrene and putty)
Install MU hoses all around
Strip, clean, prime, paint locomotive
Install lighting.
27*) install sound
David B
Note…this is not to discourage you, just a guideline to what could be done. Depends hows accurate you want it to be. If you want a CP Rail painted locomotive, just move the light, add a bell, add a winterization hatch. But if you want to go all the way, follow my steps.
CP bought some SD40-2’s from the Quebec North Shore & Labrador Railway ( QNS&L ) in the mid to late 80’s. They had them painted in the CP livery, not sure which one, but I think these would be neat to model with the over sized fuel tanks.
. The paint job is actually not bad.