Those of you building a layout or redoing an existing one may want to learn from my mistake.
My existing layout was built in the early '90s. It is HO, 11x15 in a spare room, and effectively has three levels. The construction is pretty good, as I am almost a perfectionist in that area (carpentry, wiring, tracklaying).
Well, in the last few years I realized I got too cute with my design, and stuff like hidden turnouts and reverse loops in hidden staging areas were not such a good idea. And having all those turnouts powered and the plethora of blocks made me “relearn” the layout if I stayed away from it for more than a couple of weeks.
Last summer I replaced all the switch machines (within easy reach) with Caboose Hobbies ground throws. This turned out to be a terrific move, with one of the benefits being to greatly simplify the controls for the remaining powered turnouts.
The second part of the layout “makeover” was to reduce the number of blocks, and to move some industrial sidings to better accomodate structures. Well, this was not the easiest job in town but in a couple of weeks I had it finished (or so I thought) and with two new control panels the layout is much easier to operate.
However (isn’t there always a “however”), in reviewing the finished redo, I found that I have two block controls that power wires that lead to “points unknown”. Yup, these two wires lead to an area sandwiched in benchwork, screening, plaster, and just disappears. Yes, I have done my testing of trackage and just cannot find where these two wires end up. And then I realized that it is possible that they were never connected in the first place! Anyway, I will disconnect them and put them out of the way until such time as the layout is dismantled, and their secrets will be revealed!!!
My point is, getting “cute” or complicated or overdoing t
Yes, I have experienced this problem repeatedly. The more experience I have with model railroading, more I like to keep it simple and out in the open. I like open staging, I like not having remote turnout controls of any kind- Caboose n scale ground throws work fine for many HO turnouts and I like simple wiring. That is one of the big pluses for DCC in my opinion is that the wiring is so much simpler. I like to take some pictures and keep some diagrams, it makes it so much easier to figure out later what you did.
Double deck designs are fine as long as you can reach all areas easily and see everything when you are operating. And that assumes that your helix is simple enough and bulletproof. And finally, no complicated switching areas for me- follow the prototype for track design whenever possible. It will work better, be easier to troubleshoot later and looks so much better. Clean, simple and realistic has been my goals in layout design as I mature in this hobby. - Nevin
I also have that problem STILL. A picture is worth a 1000 words! THis is an old picture of the no-lix and mine area. This was taken 8 months ago and we still have no come up with a good looking method for scenery. The tracks are to close for a SLOPE and have a rock wall is fiine but no place for a tunnel portal. If the darn thing was not so bullet proof as far as operations we would yank it out! THe answeer would have been to just use a normal transtion since it would have been only a 2.2% grade to the leve the "yell Caboose is on and THEN we could have run at 2% up to the mine using the track the caboose is on now.
This is a good thread for anybody thinking of building a complicated railroad. I am at 1200 sq feet with 700 foot main line and scraped all plans to build phase 2 and 3.
Still though…there has to be something fine and satisfying when beating the odds and coming up with a complex, interesting, and eminently useful/reliable layout. I think our memories let us down occasionally, and sure we make the odd goof in thinking things through, but most of us do pretty darned will at wiring and routing to get the results we need.
I think that benchwork is often the key…it can make or break even a simple layout. In my case, it is very simply an open frame concept with goop overlayed on aluminum screening or disposable cloth. It runs between splines supported by risers on simple joists. The beauty is that all my wiring is therefore easily visible, traced, and accessed because every feeder is routed up through tiny holes in the splines right to the very rails they service.
On the other hand, you mention tunnels and such…I have have most of my troubles in one tunnel…buckling of the tracks…which necessitated my removing the paneling/fascia to get at the area. No big deal, but wouldn’cha know it?
With a rather complex multi-level double-garage-filler under construction, I would seem to be in the same leaky canoe - except:
I am working with an operating scheme that has been unchanged since 1964.
The track arrangement and electrical blocks are clearly depicted on the local control panels, and the entire layout appears in simplified form on the CTC panel.
Every millimeter of hidden track is designed to be accessible. Staging yard throats are removeable as units, with quick-disconnect plugs for wiring.
All of my existing track and wiring was planned in detail before construction, and all of those documents are on file for reference. I will continue to document everything.
While the entirety is and will be complex, every zone was kept as simple as possible.
Planning for scenery was done first, not last.
This is not a lucky accident. It’s the result of fifty-plus years of lessons learned in the design and construction of other layouts.
3 questions to ask yourself. does it run well? do you enjoy operating it? do you mind the time to maintain it? if the answers to those 3 questions are yes then you got a good thing going[C):-)] diferrent factors weigh in for different people though. i’m planning on embarking on a 14x35 double deck with 2 helixes myself. looking forward to the challenge. a big factor in my planning is easy accessability to any hidden trackage.
claycts, looks like good work, i’d keep it and find a way to make it scenickly work.
Yep…been there, done that too! I had two switches in a tunnel, one could not be trusted to switch properly, every time. After dragging out a number of derailed trains from the tunnel, I cut an access hole in the side of the mountain. Finally just left the switch in the straight through position. RDG5500
