Many years ago I read an article on building a tool to help figure out grade percents. It is based on a 25" piece of 1" x 4" wood, with a hole drilled through 1" inch from one end. A bolt or screw is inserted through the hole as an adjustment device. A two foot level is also used. Has anyone heard of this, and does anyone know how to use it to figure grades?
Thanks,
Paul
Hi Paul,
To measure a gradient; take your 2’ level, set one end on top of rail, hold level and measure the height (at the other end) between bottom of level and top of rail.
Divide that height (say 1/2") by 2’ to get the % gradient.
I.E. .04/2.00 = 2%
To set e.g. a 2% gradient, merely duct tape a 1/2" block at the very end of your 2’ level.
Vary the height of the block, to vary the gradient.
Enjoy !!
I remember at least on article. Have you checked the “Index of Magazines”
You can buy an electronic level in hardware and building supply stores that reads in percent. They aren’t very expensive.
You can come about as close by getting a 24 or 48" level, making a stepped stack of 1/8 in thick material with about 6 layers. With the 24" level, the first step is 1/2%, the second step is 1%, the next step is 1.5%, the next is 2% and so on. With a 48" level the grades are half that. Put the level on the grade, and rest the other end on the step stack, moving from step to step to determine about what the grade is. To build to a grade, put the down hill end of the level on the step for the grade of choice and raise the uphill end until the level is level. Quick, cheap and effective. Yes, I know its not 100% accurate (using 24" vs 25" level makes the grade .17% off and if your 1/8 material isn’t 1/8 inch it will be off too), but for 99.99% of model railroad applications it is more than adequate.
Dave H.
get a metre stick ( a yard stick is nearly close enough but will underestimate the grade) and tape a spirit level onto it.
Set the stick so it is level and measure the gap at the bottom of the hill with a ruler in centimetres. That is you grade in %.
You guys don’t half make it hard for yourselves!
go metric, you know it makes sense.
This is all too much work! You can buy a calibrated adjustable “foot” to fit on the end of a 2-foot or 4-foot level so you can use the level as a grade tool. It’s the K-Took Grade Gauge, and it’s shown on page 918 of the 2004 Walthers HO catalog. It’s only $14.95, plus the level if you don’t already have one. And since the slope of grades is the same regardless of scale, one size fits all.
So long,
Andy
well you could but where’s the fun in that?
A strip of 1" by 1/8" balsa is less than a buck, at virtually every hobby shop and craft store. 
Why buy RTR when you can scratchbuild?
Dave H.
I know you were joking, Dave, but believe me, I have more than enough stuff to build – like the 90+ percent of the structures I want for my layout that aren’t available as kits – without making my own tools when I don’t have to. – Andy
I agree with Dave – why spend $15 on an adjustable tool ?
I mean; how many different gradients are you going to want to construct, on a single layout ?
I was answering Paul’s original question about using a 2’ level – but what I actually used on my layout, was a 6" level, duct-taped onto a 7’ long (perfectly straight) off-cut from some T & G panelling.
The longer the better, to avoid accumulation of errors.
Improvise – its cheaper !!
What bothers me the most in these discussions is the perceived total lack of basic math skills by many people. Figuring percentages is at most junior high school math. Unless there are a lot of elementary school students on the forum the only conclusion I can draw is it is no wonder why the teachers unions don’t want any national standards or testing.
Ndbprr,
I appreciate all the input and information. I know how to figure the percentage of a grade, and I can do it several ways. My initial question was if anyone knew how to use this particular tool.
I think the purpose of these discussions is to help others and possibly increase our knowledge and friendships. I do not think it should be a forum to bash other modelers. Some people may not have the basic math skills to do certain things, and we should help them, not ba***hem.
Paul
Should we read for them too? The question, “How do I figure the percentage of a grade?” or what percent is x inches in y feet has been asked how many times - 15 or 20? doesn’t the lack of knowledge baffle you like it does me? Sorry but I am running out of empathy for people that APPEAR too lazy to do basic math. You are right though. This question was about a tool but even that should be easily figured out with basic math skills. Sorry if you took it the wrong way but it does concern me about the future.
While not wanting to add to the controversy, I did want to note that the latest catalogue from Micro-Mark on page 71 lists their item 82280, a direct reading, damped pendulum, 1 degree increment dial, precision angle gauge for $ 12.95 USD, which is less than the $ 14.95 USD for the device in the Walthers catalogue. Micro-Mark claims it is more accurate than a bubble level. Their URL is
http://www.micromark.com
While I have not used the gauge myself, I have been happy in all my dealings with them. Andy, how about a comparison in MR ?
Bob
Have not used the tool, however I have made perfect grades with levels. Sometimes a long level is a hendrence ie S turns, scenery ect. What I do is calculate gradent in thousants .o10 per x degree per inch X lenght of level, 3, 4, 6, 12, inch amd two and three foot levals. A short four inch by 3/8 level with the desired depth glued on the end (or taped) is great for subroadbed joints, in curves checking for warpage ect. I as a most others do not believe this is a format bor bashing, but an excelent source for information of ideas. I dont know or want to intend to sound like I know it all. I hope this simple device can help and dont worry about the bashers, they have a way of doing it to themselves.