Based on the July 2003 MRR, Realistic Stainless Steel article, I wanted to let you know that using 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to strip paint off of model passenger cars works - FLAWLESSLY! [swg][tup]
I took a glass pan "2 high, "10 wide, and "15 long. I filled it with the 91% alcohol and immersed two 10 year old HO Bachmann Metroliner cars shells that were factory painted in the “Amtrak” scheme. Within five minutes, the clear alcohol turned White, with Red and Blue streaks from the paint “floating off” of the shells. After 30 minutes, using a toothbrush, I easily scrubbed off (with little effort) the paint left on each model while still immersed in the alcohol. I continuously turned each car as the paint slid off. A short trip to the kitchen sink with some warm water and soap and they’re now a clean shade of factory “light gray” totally bare plastic. The plastic was not damaged at all. I used 3 bottles of 91% Alcohol from Walgreens. They were $1.39 each. If I can find a more narrow container, I would only need two bottles. [(-D][:P][:)]
It was a good feeling of success as I was a little skeptical. Many modelers over 35 remember the old days when many of us used “Brake Fluid” to strip model railroad cars - which thankfully is no longer recommended. [V][X-)]
I’ve never tried other paint strippers before like Scale Coat. Have you guys tried different paint stripping methods? How do they compare to the alcohol method as far as SPEED and COST?
I’m curious and willing try other recommended methods even though I am very happy with the results of this method. [:D]
Thanks for the info. I used Lestoil once and never again. The paint came off but it also softened the plastic but I was lucky as I was able to wa***he shell and the plastic firmed up again. I’ll be trying the Alcohol in the near future as I have a couple of refits coming up.
Thanks, Antonio, I have an A-B Funit set in New Haven orange, black, and white, both powered, that I purchased for $10 from another modeler thinning out his inventory. Will now be trying your method and redo them for my Erie layout soon to be built, Ken
Antonio, it may be awhile before I actually do it. I have to go to the surgeon this morning to get ready to put my plumbing back together again after having part of it removed back before thanksgiving out in Arizona. I only mention this because it may be several weeks to months before I do it and I want to have the Erie decals and paint on hand also. Best to ya, Ken
Alcohol (91%) is always the best thing to try first. It is the safest for plastic. Most times it works, those times that it doesn’t then you try something else. But I always, always give it a try first.
Great responses, but one of my questions is: How does the 91% alcohol method compare to the stripping products available in hobby shops?. Also, the speed of the stripping process?
eriediamond,
I wish you all the best and a quick recovery from your hospitalisation !
i don’t know if this are the right english words, but get well soon.
LUPO
There are no easy words in a medical situation. I sincerely pray that all goes well. Stay positive and post as soon as you can. Let us know how you are. [;)]
Hoping to read about your successes with the F units. [;)][tup]
Seems that since mostly the same people post and reply over and over, we’ve become something of an “Internet Model Railroad Family”.
I started by using Polly S scale stripper, which did damage some plastics, took several applications to get some paints off, and the fumes were pretty harsh. I tried 91% after reading an old MR, and it has so far, worked better and cleaner, and cheaper.
I’ve found that there are some paints in cheaper models that seem to break down and chemically mix with the plastic, if that makes sense. It’s similar to what ACC does to the plastic and paint. So there have been some models that I have gotten second hand on Ebay which someone painted in their own scheme, and which I was not able to completely get off. But those paints were dulled enough, and blended in with the shell color enough that it didn’t show through my paint jobs.
Try using a bread pan,. It should be plenty deep enough and is long enough to fit an E8 (diagonally). Also, you may want to try some of those cheap foil baking pans. They can easlily be bent to fit around the shell. You might even be able to get by with one conatainer of alcohol.
Remember to keep the alcohol covered, and minimize exposure to air. If you leave it out, pretty soon your 91% IPA is 70% IPA…which has greatly reduced effectiveness.
Wal-Mart and Sam’s Club also stock it, for less than $1…
Great Tip! I’ll have to try the alcohol method. My favorite is Polly Scale ELO, but being rather expensive, I’ve been using Pine Sol lately. It seems to do a great job, but I have had it slightly soften and etch a few plastics. But no matter what method you use, WEAR GLOVES! (ask me how I know this LOL!) If it’s strong enough to remove paint, it will also remove your epidermis with equal efficiency.
Re: Brake Fluid. Brake fluid can make the thinner plastics in many of the newer model railroad cars and locomotives weaker and more brittle. And yes, it is not very healthy for our bodies.
GrayLoess,
You’ll definetly like the alcohol as the plastic is not softened at all! I let the cars soak for only 30 minutes and got fantastic results. It took me about 2 minutes to gently brush off the remaining paint.
The July 2003 Model Railroader article suggested 2 hours for soaking. So there is no need to have to soak overnight or wait 8 hours.
Jshucknet,
Thanks for the warning as I had originally considered buying Polly S stripper.
ACL fan reports that the Super Clean is very effective also. I’m willing to try it on my next painting project as I plan on metalizing most of my HO Rivorossi passenger cars with the Alclad metalizing method. [:D][8D][8)][:p]
A bread pan sounds like a good idea for a container as was suggested. It is tricky finding a container that’s long enough for one or two HO passenger cars and just high enough so that the cars can be fully submerged. If you get a bigger container then you’ll have to use more alcohol which can run up costs.
Thanks you guys for your great info! Keep it coming![:D][8)][:D][^][C):-)][swg][tup]
You’ll throw out every other product you’ve used once you try CSC.
I was about to buy an abrasive gun because there are just some paints that won’t come off with IPA, brake fluid, Pine-Sol or anything else…when I tried CSC and discovered how well it works.
Looks like a trip to evil Walmart. I don’t think my LHS carries CSC. I have been using the 91% alcohol method and achieved acceptable but not impressive results. I have been a little gunshy on the brake fluid thing though. A friend trashed a shell with it.