I have used Lou Sassi’s ground goop and really like the results. That said, I am adding a new reverse loop section and have to remove some scenery (it needed removing anyway). In one area the goop was applied directly to a section of plywood that needs to be cut away. It’s like chipping concrete…HA!! So a lesson learned - use it on foam or other kind of scenery base and keep it off bare wood. [#oops]
Yeah I have used Lou’s ground goop also. When I had to remove it,it was as you say hard as concrete. I used a chisel and chipped away at it.
In this respect, how does Sculptamold compare? I know it’s quite different as scenery itself but curious whether it will be as hard for me to remove if needed.
Paul:
I’m in the process of moving some scenery built on plywood with Sculptamold. The Sculptamold layers are up to 1/2" thick in places and it is requiring a lot of chisel work. It works better if you wet the area first and wait a few minutes before you start chiseling. Thinner areas are easier to remove. It’s still a no fun job.
Joe
I’ve used a drywall saw to remove Sculptamold. It cuts through it easily down to the plywood so you can scrape off small sections. It makes some dust, so I saw slowly and keep the shop vac handy.
George V.
I use Gypsolite and my base is foam, but when I have to take it up I use a utility knife to cut about a 1/2 inch grid across the area to be removed. This breaks it up into manageable chunks that scrape off easily. Once you’ve got one chunk removed, you can get under the edges of the rest which is better than working from the top.
Sculptamold does stick to wood, but usually you can chip it off by getting a stiff putty knife blade or chisel under the edge to chip and pry it away. Wetting does help, so throw on some wet paper towels and let set for the moisture to be sucked in and it should make things even easier.