I wrote a previous note about hand laying turnouts. Are there kits for doing this? I have a need for a curved code 70 turnout in my yard. I am also thinking about the AP certificate for civil engineering. Hand laying a crossover, spur and a diamond would help. Speaking of hand laying a diamond, that is another project that I would like to tackle but do not know where to begin.[:$] A little help would be appreciated.[:D]
There are kits and jigs for hand-laying specialwork, but they tend to run to standard geometry - straight or Y switches, standard-number frogs…
My method, which involves bending flex track to form cardstock templates, then laying the ties and spiking down the rail, is neither gauge nor code specific. The same method works for Civil-War era stub switches in Code 40 and the triple interlaced wyes of St. Louis Union Terminal in code 83. I have also laid mine car track, 6mm gauge in code 25.
To get the dirty details, click my screen name, go to the Search block and type in, “You called?” The info you need is in the 2007 post. Ignore the others.
Hope this helps
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on hand-laid specialwork)
Do you cut your own ties or get them somewhere else? Tony Koester had a video segment in Dream Plan Build where he built a code 70 # 8 turnout. He had plans from the Nickel Plate Society. That is helpful with straight turnouts. Especially, the length of the ties and the number of each length tie needed. Do not help me that much.[:O]
Proto87Stores and Central Valley both have turnout kits. You can also buy turnout tie strips and bulk rail from Central Valley and lay your own that way. Finally Fast Tracks sells jigs for hand laying turnouts.
I’ve been building turnouts using Central Valley turnout ties and Micro Engineering rail with a method I learned from Joe Fugate. The CV turnout tie sections can be curved. I have two curved turnouts to build for my layout.
I just finished building a Y using the Central Valley ties. I read in the FAQ’s that it could be done and sure enough it worked!
I’ve built a lot turnouts and crossings. It is fun!
You will find my HowTo at my website . My latest turnouts were H0n3 code 40 for my narrow gauge module Salina. All I need is a paper template and tools like the NMRA gauge. Then I need some time like 4 1/2 hours for this :
BTW, Civil Engineer was my seventh certificat. [:)]
Wolfgang
Two words - Fast Tracks - http://www.handlaidtrack.com/
You’ll want to see this - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15r-W7YX770
They are a little pricey to get the jigs but the cost goes way down the more you make. Someone said 10 was the break even pint when compared to quality manufactured TO. The upside is the Fast Track will be spot on
ratled
Don’t be afraid to try different methods. I use 3 different methhods on my current layout depending on what the needs are at the moment.
-
I build switch parts on the workbench (frogs, guardrails, points) and then assemble them on the layout.
-
I build switches on a template on a piece of homasote on the work bench, then solder thin brass strips across the tops of rails at 3 places. The prefabbed switches are dropped in place and spiked down.
-
Switches are built in place on the layout.
I glue down a switch template in place and gule the ties down even with the staggered end on the template. Then I just cut across the straight side and all the ties are cut to the proper length.
Thanks Wolfgang. [Y]
Ratled,
That youtube video was great!![;)] It made me feel as if I could do that!! Any idea about the total cost of the tools need for such products? I assume that there are templates for different size turnouts. What about curved turnouts? Specifically, I am looking to hand lay a curved turnout that does not conform to standard curved turnouts currently available.[tup]
The usual turnout templates you can download e.g. at the Fast Tracks site.
But for a special turnout you are on your own. Like me with this throat. You can make your own template, only the center lines you must draw. More lines will speed up the progress, but are not necessary.
Wolfgang
Here is where you can download the templates for free http://www.handlaidtrack.com/Fast-Tracks-Printable-Track-Templates-s/11.htm You may also like this from them http://www.handlaidtrack.com/document-library-a/135.htm There are a few more videos there too. As for price, they are little pricey up front , it depends on what you want to do. Simple turnouts and crossovers can be made from one jig. the complete kit with jig, tools, rail, ties and DVD is just over $200 and makes something like 10 turnouts (see their site for exact numbers) But that gives you 10 turnouts that are spot on for $20 each. Each time you make more the cost per turnout goes down since you only buy supplies. They are great folks to work with - y0u should drop them a note.
ratled
Well, I started hand laying track by getting a commercial product and examining the rails. I then just duplicated what I saw. The first trick I learned was to file a notch in the foot of the rail on the inside where I wanted to bend it. Trick 2 don’t try to bend sharp angles for crossings. Cut and solder instead.
This really sounds like the perfect situation for using Central Valley curve-able turnout tie strips.
Jack Work’s Birth of a Turnout article in April 1963 Model Railroader is just the ticket. The article was the basis for my learning how to handlay track - and my first efforts were on a 4x6 in code 70 in the 1970s. Article copies can be ordered from Kalmbach for a few dollars if you can’t locate a copy of the issue. The article is the best I’ve seen over the decades for laying free-form, flowing track.
The easiest way (for me) is to lay out the curves full size on your roadbed of choice (Homasote works best for me). I do this right on the layout, laying my turnouts in place. This assumes the turnouts are reasonably close to the benchwork edge. I typically use curves right through the turnout for smooth flowing trackwork. Use a batten or similar to get smooth curves. I use a pencil line where each rail goes - a center line is not necessary. This gives me frog and point locations. Another set of curves for the ties ends are optional - this helps locate where switch ties end, although you can do this by eye without the lines.
I have no clue what my frog number is - and I don’t care. I look for smooth curves through the turnout that are at or above my minimum radius.
I use piano key jigs and narrow strips of painter’s tape to lay the ties in place. Final adjustment of tie spacing is done by eye. I use wood ties everywhere - the throw bar is the only piece of PC board material.
I use the filled frog technique, which does not require great accuracy for the filing of the frog point. The flangeway is then cut out with a hacksaw blade. For curved turnouts, I hold the b
That is how I do my frog. Bend, file, fold.