Art,
I know that you have convinced me,
Thanks for sharing,
Bob
Call me an unsophisticated cretin, but on my last layout I was just too lazy to install switch machines on all but the most vital turnouts. So I just pushed the points around with my fingers (!) and never had the least problem anywhere. The switch machines I did install were the Atlas undertable models and they worked fine.
NICE !
I use Peco switches and a cew Caboose hand throws. I normally carry around a stick to uncouple cars with, it serves double duty as a switch throwing device for switches without ground throws. A few companies make an uncoupling tool that works fine for this, but a wooden barbecue skewer works just as well as a “brakeman’s club.” I don’t let the size of the throws bug me except a couple of places where there isn’t room for a throw due to crowded track conditions.
I’m going to have to go undertable at some point, especialy once I start running overhead wire, but the track nearest the edge of the layout (and most of it is there, if I can possibly help it) will be controlled manually. I like being a brakeman!
I’m still convinced that the proven push/pull rod system with a slide switch directly below the turnout is the best and also cheapest method of manual operation. A slide switch is cheap and has electrical contacts and for rods I use bicycle spokes which are available at any bicycle shop. The only draw back of the push/pull system is that it can not negociate sharp corners; there a bicycle brake cable can be used (Holland is a country of cyclists!).
I have used music wire and metal tubing - not crazy about the metal tubing. What type of plastic tubing? Were do you get it?
For a really low-cost but working pushrod system, I used plain steel wire (not sure about the gauge but thicker than music wire) that I ran through a plastic tube made from plastic coffee stirrers (the ones that look like little straws) glued together. Though it doesn’t look very professional (which doesn’t matter, cause it’s hidden), it works well - the friction between the (not perfectly straight) wire and the tube ensures that the points are held firmly in place. Also, it can be bent at reasonably sharp angles so you can reach any part of the layout this way.