Hi guys,
I’m looking for any info concerning making handlaid track/turnouts , meaning separate ties, tieplates, rails etc.
I know the Fast Tracks (www.handlaidtrack.com) , which produces tools and materials for handlaid turnouts and track, but I wanna know more. Anybody’s using Fast Tracks’ stuff? Are there more companies that make similar stuff ? Thanks !
For more details look at PROTO87 . there’s more stuff. I’ve used the frogs and throwbars and details.
Wolfgang
Greetings,
I have used the Fast Tracks tools to make 4 turnouts now. All of these have been samples to learn the process. I am now awaiting an order that will allow me to redo all the track work on my layout using turnouts and track built with their tools.
Here is a short thread I put on their site with links to some short videos of the last two turnouts I built; one straight and one curved.
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1050
What I have seen of their products and what I have used so far I have been pleased with the results.
I hope this helps.
Christopher
This topic comes up every now and then - see this post here, that might provide you with some good basic info.
There are fair number of folks, including myself, that have had great success with the Fast Tracks products, but there are other options out there.
You can build trackwork without Fast Tracks, there are lots of different ways to do it. PC ties, built in place, build on the workbench, build componenets and “kit build” on the layout, build completely on the layout. Lotsa different methods to do points, hinged points, hinged throwbar, soldered throwbar. the rails can be soldered down, spiked down, glued down. You can use PC ties, wood ties, Central Valley plastic ties.
With Fast Tracks you trade time for money. You avoid the learning curve on building your own switches. If you have more time and patience than money, build them the “traditional” way.
If you decide not to use Fast Tracks, buy a 1" belt sander, it makes “grinding” frogs and points a breeze.
It’s a matter of personal preference, but my preference is for hand filing rather than using a belt sander or grinding wheels. I’ve tried building turnouts both ways and I prefer the feel of a good, sharp file. With a sharp file, filing goes a lot faster than you’d think and I find it easier to control than power grinding.
How do you know if a file is sharp? Buy a new one and work with it for a while and you’ll learn what a sharp tool feels like. To keep that feeling, buy a new file every so often whether you think you need it or not.
Good luck with your turnouts,
Andy
Before I worked with Fasttracks tools, I used commercial turnouts. When I started using Fasttracks, then it opened my eyes to what can be and how commercially produced turnouts are flawed.
Now, if I need a turnout, I just build it to fit what I need. The only tool I use from Fasttracks is the Point Form tool. Beyond that, I use my NMRA gauge.
David B
This has been my experience, generally. The points filing tool is worth every penny. The jig, a good and handy tool, is not necessary if you are patient and methodical. All you need is soldering tools, track cutters, the actual code of rail stock you need, some ties of any type, and a good file. Oh, yes, and the mandatory NMRA gauge or three-point gauges.
I learned how to make turnouts, good ones, using Fast Tracks materials and methods, and like them very much. It may be a chunk of investment up front, but once you get it, you can make any turnout for the rest of your hobby history, and that could reduce the cost of turnouts to the $4-5 range after only 25 turnouts.
-Crandell
I never used any kits or fastrack (dont even know what that is). I make all my own switches, frogs, points, guard rails, everything with rail, a soldering iron, file, bench grinder, time and patience. first 3 switches were garbage but the rest are great. I will try to get a pic up here.
With the Fast tracks template you are limited to only the size turnout for that template. Unless you want your whole layout to have the same size turnout. P87 makes a turnout kit in several different sizes and Central Valley make turnout kits that you supply rail for.
I tried a couple CV turnout kits and they look and operate superbly. I am also using the CV tie strips in the branch line format and the 8 foot 6 inch main line ties.
Pete
Howdy, Alex. Welcome aboard [#welcome]
For a long evening’s reading, just enter “handlaid turnouts” into the Model Railroader Forums option of Search Community. We have rung the changes on everything from simple turnouts to puzzle palace terminal throats replete with double slip switches, including lots of links to ‘how-to’ articles elsewhere.
I personally combine hand-laid specialwork with flex track (concrete ties - never have seen them handlaid…) Like Andy S. I prefer a nice BIG flat file to any grinding or sanding machine. That, rail cutters, spiking pliers, a BIG soldering gun, an NMRA gauge and a couple of three point track gauges are my entire tool kit. I have never used Fast Tracks jigs, so have no personal opinion to share.
Handlaying is not some arcane art practiced by wizards - even this arthritic old coot can do it. All it takes is patience, and a willingness to rework (or scrap) any piece of rail that isn’t a pretty close approximation of perfect. There is a learning curve. There’s also the immense satisfaction of being able to look at a piece of aesthetically pleasing, smoothly operating specialwork, and say, “I built that.”
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on handlaid specialwork)
Alex, check out the www.bronx-terminal.com site. It’s Tim Waris from Fasttracks and it’s a model of a real terminal back in the day. He had to do all the trackwork from scratch and when you see it your eyes will bug out. It’s very inspiring and makes you realize what can be done with simple tools and time.
Lou
I can recomend hand laying of track and turnouts. It takes time but it is worth the investment. I laid my first turnout with pretty good results and the second was a three way which looks good and performs beautifully. I have since built two other three ways and they could not perform better. As others have said here, you do not need expensive tools and jigs. When I was laying track and needed one of those things I just made my own. I do use a belt sander for grinding. Again I built a jig and it will grind a perfect point in seconds.
Go for it!!!
Thank you, guys, for this great feedback. Now I understand that one can do even without expensive jigs.
One more question is the tieplates. I know, many modellers do without it, but if I decide to go after authenticity, what tools should I use? I saw some tieplates are made by Proto87, but as I understand they are dummies without holes for spikes.
Anyway, thanks again !
The easiest way to get tie plates is to use the Central Valley tie strips - also sold at Proto87 Stores. They have both a mainline and branchline configuration - the latter has smaller tie plates. The CV tie strips will work with code 83, 70, and 55 rail, although the code 55 won’t gauge automatically because of the smaller rail base.
I don’t use tie plates or tie strips because a 1900 era short line or narrow gauge line didn’t use them. Nor did they use creosote. Instead, I’m having to learn how to effectively model some hand hewn ties, weathered natural wood ties, stub turnouts, and center-high and dirt ballasting.
Fred W
…modeling foggy coastal Oregon, where it’s always 1900…
I’ve hand laid many miles of rail and turnouts. I have never used any of those fancy tools or jigs. The main tool one MUST have is an NMRA gauge. I also have a pile of three point gauges which I’ve accumulated through the years. I also hand file the track for the frog. I’ve never had a grinder until last summer and so far have not tried it for track (just law mower blades). I don’t worry about the exact frog measurement, because I build the turnout to fit where it needs to go. I do have one specialized hand spiker tool left over from the 1950’s, but I find a good needle nose plier works better and quicker. For large yards and very long sections of track it goes a whole lot quicker with a Kadee spiker tool - unfortunately I don’t have one and they are no longer manufactured.
My track laying tool box has:
a couple NMRA gauges
a bunch of three point track gauges (various track code and manufacturers).
a roller track gauge
a parallel track tool
4 flat files of various sizes and a smallish triangle file.
set of miniature precision files
three pair needle nose pliers
the hand spiker tool mentioned above
a home made tie spacer template (set the ties in - put masking tape over them - pick up the tape and move strips of perfectly spaced ties to layout)
a few alligator spring loaded pinch clamps
soldering iron
solder
circuit board tie material in tie width strips
and a bunch of between the rail track curve templates in various radii (well I guess one is a straight template too).
chisel and hammer - for removing old track.