I’ve been doing a semi-dangerous thing–thinking.
It seems to me ballasting would be a whole lot easier before laying rail, especially on turnouts. My landscape is pretty much done so that it not an issue.
What say you?
I assume you mean, lay down the wood ties on hard flat subroadbed, ballast the ties, then spike the rail? That should work - I have to think there would soon be a need to remove ballast taller than the ties if it interfered with the rails. i could imagine that would be very frustrating and you might kink some rail learning just where the ballast is interfering.
Dave Nelson
Chip, I think you would find it a useful way to do it, providing you remember to use a straightedge (steel ruler edge?) to sweep several ties at a time to ensure they are absolutely top-free from encumbrances like the ones mentioned by Dave. Changes into and out of grades here and there will mean you won’t be able to use a 12" or longer ruler effectively, but a smaller item like it will allow you to slide the edge over six or more ties at a time just as the glue is wanting to set. Then, follow with a small waste piece of rail stock and slide it along the ties side-to-side to see if you will be able to get it to sit on the ties cleanly. That should work.
One thing is for sure…you’ll have pristine ballasted track when you’re done.
-Crandell
I recall a John Allen photo of what looked like an abandoned right-of-way through scenically complete terrain (trees, underbrush, etc - even a few critters including a deer crossing the imbedded ties.) The caption stated that John liked to complete all of the surroundings BEFORE laying rail!
If John Allen could do it, you can do it. And I agree that it’s a lot easier to add ballast without those pesky rails in the way.
In fact, I might do that when I get to the visible track on my layout. Some of my track detail will include non-working mechanical interlocking rodding. Of course, right now I’m still mucking around in the netherworld…
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
The last article I read describing handlaying track had this sequence:
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Glue down pre-stained ties.
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Spread and glue ballast. Let dry.
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Sand tops of ties and ballast with a sanding block.
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Touch up sanded ties with stain.
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Lay rails.
The traditional way to handlay track is to do the ties and ballast first, then lay the rails.
However, for turnouts, I find I do a much better job on a turnout if I build it at the workbench, so the typical “ballasting before” for handlaid track becomes ballasting after the turnout is built just like with commercial turnouts. The ballasting issue is moot for me with turnouts, since I’d much rather have a well-built turnout done at the workbench than compromise my turnout-building quality just to make the job of ballasting turnouts a bit easier.
Ballasting a turnout with rails on it is not that much harder, you just have to not be in a great big hurry … and when it comes to trackwork, it never pays to get in a great big hurry. If you get in a rush with trackwork, it will come back to haunt you later, guaranteed. [swg]
The beauty of jig-built turnouts (Fast Tracks or using Central Valley turnout ties as a poor man’s jig) is they go together fast, but they’re also dimensionally precise making them very reliable – better than any commercial turnout.
Chip,
Tony Koester outlined his process for handlaying in a series of articles in MR entitled “Coal Fork Extension”. He did exactly as you suggest and laid the ties and ballasted them first before adding rail. His track work in that article was beautiful and is an excellent example of the flowing type of trackwork possible through handlaying. Check out he series.
I wish MR would do more of these series articles on something more substantial than another 4 X 8. More Ian Rice, Tony maybe Andy S, Lance M. or many other great modelers out there…
Guy
This is the proven method developed years ago. Doing it this way prevents the ties from splitting when you spike the rails down.
Yep – that’s the only way I’ve ever ballasted when handlaying. I neevr had an issue with ballast interfering with the rail – if something’s in the way, a quick tap with the tip of a screwdriver (or spiking pliers) and it’s gone…
Peter
I really like the idea of ballasting first. This layout I’m working on is about looks. The better it looks the sooner, the better I will feel.
Chip
I found roughing in the scenery terrain around the bare roadbed made hand laying the track in the traditional order feel very much like extending track into the wilderness. It just made the process that much more enjoyable. As I accumulated the pieces, I would pose a locomotive pushing track laying supply cars at the end of the rails, and some figures where I was getting ready to lay ties and ballast, or spike rail. Cheap fun.
Seriously though, I do like the looks of Homasote painted an earth color extending into the scenery, followed by the appearance of ties and ballast sans rails on the “graded roadbed”, and finally the completed track.
The sanding of the tie tops - in addition to providing a level, smooth surface for the rails - removes any “too high” ballast or ballast on top of ties. After sanding, a pass with the vacuum to gather up the dust, and restaining the tie tops as necessary, and you are ready to spike rails.
I used mostly Timberline redwood ties in the past - requires no staining and fits in with my prototype - but my supply is running low, and I’ve yet to find another source. May have to invest in a micro table saw and cut my own.
Fred W
Chief Engineer, wiper, and Jack-of-all Trades for the
Picture Gorge & Western Railway
Port Orford & Elk River Railway & Navigation Co
…modeling foggy coastal Oregon, where it’s always 1900…