handlaying track, best place to get/find supplies?

benchwork should be up within the next few weeks and assuming i can finally settle on a track plan ill be starting to lay track. id really like to handlay my own track in 0n30 as i dont really like the stuff thats out of peco ( as much as i love their t/o , their flextrack looks too funky) and ME is kinda out of my price range.

My idea (until someone can talk me out of it) is to use c83 atlas flextrack. rip the ties off and use it as my stock rail. for the t/o, i plan in cutting all but a few of the ties and re-lay them on wood ties and spike it down ( then get rid of the plastic ties). I figure that way i can get reliable turnout that will look like they were built on site but that will operate as smoothly as they were intended to be ( thats the plan theoritically)

heres my problem, where can i get ties, spike, gauges and all the assorted stuff one needs to start handlaying? i plan on using plywood for benchwork so i assume i will need to cover that with something that will more readily accept spikes. Can i get homasote in Qc? would reno-depot or home depot or any of the big chain carry it? is there an equivalent material that i could use if thats not available? should i still plan on using cork roadbed and if so what size would i need? HO or O? what spikes are best? i dont want to go gonzo with the track superdetailling but i would like it to look ( but mostly perform) right

Can i use the standard NMRA HO gauge for checking turnouts and gauge of track or should i get an O scale one for checking clearance as well? who makes track laying gauge? i remeber reading about some rolling gauge but dont recall seeing them anywhere but a few issues of MR , where can i find 3 point gauge?

on a unrelated subject ( but while we’re discussing 0n30) where can i find decent 1/48 - 1/43 pre WW2 american car and trucks… ebay has some but selection is limited. Also does anyone make a 0 scale barge ? planning maritime transfer as one of the main

www.handlaidtrack.com for the handlaying supplies.

I purchased a sleeve of Code 100 rail from my LHS 14 months ago so that I could build my Fast Tracks (link provided in the previous post) turnouts. I think it held something like 40 pieces of 3’ rail, maybe 50. So, I’m pretty sure you can shop around and find Code 83 in a bundle and not have to pay for wastage or risk bending rails while you strip all the ties.

Just a thought.

yea , im pretty sure my LHS will be able to help me out with that. ( i think he’s almost as excited, if not more than me about the prospect of getting all kinds of 0n30 stuff in the shop and a great excuse to start stocking all the neat lil things) That website is very good but those fas tracks jigs are completly out of my price range. im sure they work nicely but i cant possibly justify that expense with the wife ( or my stomach… i do love to eat 3 meals a day…)

what would be best though: c83 or c100 for 0n30?

It depends. If you want scale rail, Code 100 would fill most cases of modeling, but you could just as well model Code 83 as backwoods, move-'em-to-where-you-need-'em rails. IOW, you would be modeling a lighter rail for industrial purposes. If the flanges work, then you are good to go, either way.

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http://www.troutcreekeng.com/bkho.html

Precision BK switch kits, and more.

I generally buy tubes of rail rather than ripping rail out of flex track. 99’ of rail to the tube, which works out 50% cheaper than 50 sections of Atlas flex. Building your own turnouts up from the ties and rails will give you a far better turnout than adapting Atlas parts. You will have an all rail frog, wing rails, and guard rails with no ugly black plastic. Your models will run much smoother on your hand-built turnouts than on Atlas, and you’ll have a big smile from knowing the train is running over track you built. The Trout Creek site mentioned in the previous post also has an O page where they sell On30 ties, spikes, gauges, and for those who don’t believe enough in themselves, turnouts (kit or assembled).

See the above paragraph. Railway Engineering also sells “Rollee” gauges. Simpson Products sells the roller gauges in brass. Some prefer the roller gauges to avoid the gauge widening on curves that comes with 3 point gauges. It really depends on your curve radius. If you are using 18" radius curves in On30, then you will need some gauge widening on curves.

All you need to handlay track are : ties, rail, spikes, glue, feeder wire (I use 24 gauge magnet wire), ballast (I ballast when I lay the ties, and before spiking rail). Tools needed are 2-4 roll

yea surprinsigly it answer most of my queries. I’ve been trying to read up as much as possible both online and old MR and i keep trying to repeat its nothing to be affraid off but coming from the world on flextrack and sectional track thats going to be a steep earning curve. I plan on using 22in. curves so that way the small mechnical critters will look good and a 2-6-0 with a passenger consist wont look too goofy. I still havent heard of standards, so far ive stuck with about 4 inch separation in between parallel track on my track plan.

trying to keep everything as easy as possible and hpefully get something real nice in the process…maybe i ought to re-re-reread tony koester method of buildings turnouts…