Does anyone know a really good site that explains in insane detail, how to do this, including materials needed? It is something I have wanted to do for years, and I have a week off, and thought its now or never!
Thanks!
Alex
Are you talking about actually making the rail yourself or handlaying track?
-G-
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/index.php
http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=a&id=296
These sites might help you.
Enjoy
Paul
absolute basics…
Good file, needlenose pliers (2 actually) rail, spikes, vise. Black marker to mark locations, NMRA gauge, standard gauges to hold rail in position, wire cutters or Kadee rail clippers.
You can build complex trackwork with just that. The trick is knowing how to do it…8-D
Simply spike down your straight rail, lay down the curved diverging, file an angle on a rail close to the angle you expect the turnout to be at, notch file behind it for the diverging rail, spike it down using the gauge checking position between the straight and diverting. File another angled rail to fit into the notch, you have your frog, gauge and place and spike.
Making the points isnt tough, file one side down then other side just the top head portion.
Just thinking about how you make them without filing down the main rails, file the bottom foot down one side, the other side file the top head down, then sharpen the head down to the point so you hve a small bit that lays on or slightly over the main rail.
The NMRA gauge has a flangeway gauge, this is used to find the point where the point rails get bent to line up with the frog wing rails. Just spike down the point rails gauged,NMRA mark the point the gauge hits the point rail, bend the rail parallel to the frog rails to make the wing.
bend a short section to make the flange guide, then clip with cutters.
You should make the points first to aid its placing and not have the frog in the way or have the frog rails out of the way while making the points.
I needed a double slip switch for my layout years ago and an MR article telling how to build it taught me how to make switches. First switch I ever built. I’ll have to take a pic of that switch its here laying around.
The throw rod for the turnout can be done many ways, a PC tie soldered to the points works, or plastic material with short brass pieces soldered to the points with holes for a screw to screw down to the plastic rod.
Thats a
dinwitty thanks tons! That was quite the explanation. I would like to start small, probably doing just some straight sections, to get the hang of it.
Thanks Iron rooster for the links. I am definitely going to be studying them tonight!
I would love to do this really traditionally, using wooden ties and all that. I will gather the tools and materials needed tomorrow,and then I can start messing around with it. I am assuming laying straight sections of track is pretty straightforward? (who am I kidding, nothing in this hobby is straightforward!!)[:D]
alex
You can see at my how to scratch build turnouts too, there’re lot of pictures.
Wolfgang
That my friend is some serious dedication to the hobby…I was nervious just reading it[:o)]
For one way to make very nice looking and very reliable turnouts for less up front investment than in a full FastTracks jig, I have written an online clinic on handlaying a turnout using the Central Valley turnout ties (with photos).
(Click to enlarge)
Above photo is a #6 code 83 turnout built using the CVT ties as I describe in my online clinic.
That is a FINE looking turnout…wish I had bought Fast-Tracks when I started this layout, but it was overwhelming to me then. Now, 3 years later, I wish I had… .my (commercial) turnouts are good, but NOT that GOOD! Dang, look at the smooth arc on that turnout…'nair a bump in her! Well, I am completely jealous… and planning on getting 3-4 Fast Tracks jigs for my next layout…
Brian
When the only track available was Atlas (code100), It used to be that to get more accurate trackage one had to lay their their own own.
Today Micro-Engineering makes the most realistic code 83 flextrack, however turnouts still benefit from hand laying to insure best operation from putting everything in gauge - a flaw in almost all pre-fab turnouts.
KITS or home assembled turnouts get the ‘tender-loving-care’ needed to prevent wheel bounce and derailments, however tighter tolerances and inspections cost the maker $$$ in a market where newbie ‘good enough’ at the price prevails.
Proto 87 and Fast tracks tightest spec turnouts, where Shinohara probably makes the best pre-fabs. Walthers and Micro-Engineering are aiming for the DCC buyer (like Atlas), and Peco’s Insulafrog’s are both ‘power routing’ and DCC friendly
BK and Central Valley turnout kits are both excellent and recquiring ties to hold them. (Definitely worth the effort).
By the way, those were not made with FastTrack jigs at all.
Joe,
That is nice trackwork. Exceptional might be a better word.
Along the lines of this topic, many years ago Walthers sold a “rail spiker” tool. It was like a staple gun: It bit the center out of a staple and drove the two legs on both sides of a rail at once. They were popular in the Allen/Westcott era. I’ve looked on ebay and never see any indication that these tools ever existed. Does anyone remember them? What happened to them?
The spiker was a Kadee product. It was very popular, but Kadee had to stop making them for some reason. I suspect that some over-litigious consumer accidentally spiked himself, and forced them to quit making them.
Thanks, guys for the compliments on the turnout. It was relatively easy to make and when tested with a micrometer, it is spot on the NMRA turnout specs.
As to handlaying regular track – I don’t bother these days. Flex track like MicroEngineering’s flex is just too darn good looking to make it worth the effort. ME’s track comes with scale spikehead and tie plate detail, and when ballasted and weathered, it’s hard to beat it:
(Click photo to enlarge)
Turnouts are a different story. No commercial turnout follows the NMRA specs precisely, so the only way you will get a spot on (and thus the most reliable operating) turnout is to lay it yourself. FastTracks (all popular scales) and Central Valley Turnout tie kits (HO only) are a good way to make the handlaying process very fast and still very precise. The jigs approach also makes building turnouts (with a little practice) more or less goof-proof.
I wouldn’t touch this topic with a ten foot pole!