Has anybody tried these couplers

Go to

http://www.sergentengineering.com/

click Products then click Economy

While the couplers are dummies, the Old Dog thinks it could live that for that price.

Anybody have any idea of the screw size need to mount these?

Have fun

IIRC, these are working couplers. (they sell dummies too). I don’t think they are compatible with KD’s or McHenrey types.

Edit-Didn’t see you were referring to the dummies.(oops)

The Sargent couplers are ‘scale’ copuplers and will not mate with any of the Kadee or ‘Kadee Clone’ couplers - I am sure the ‘dummy’ ones have the same limitation. The big problem with these couplers are:

  • The limited mounting options at this point.
  • No ‘gathering’ range, or automatic centering
  • You must open the knucles to couple(just like the prototype).

I bought a package of them in kit form a number of years ago - Very nice, and they may actually get used on a ‘contest’ model. But for my layout; I want standard Kadee couplers that perform well, and the cars can be taken to the club to operate as well.

If these ‘dummy’ versions are only going to be run in some kind of ‘unit train’ - Maybe they are a good a value…

Jim Bernier

Sure look nice.

I just found the “sergent” dummy couplers myself a few days ago–thus I don’t have any yet to answer your question about mounting screws. I’m hoping to put these dummies on my Athearn Bethgon unit coal train (and using a coupler conversion car). I took my train to a friend’s layout to run (with the stock couplers), and there were continual train partings. I think these couplers are the answer. If they’ll fit.

Ed

Was the continual partings due to the difference in rail head height?

Scale couplers are much more sensitive to this than the Kaydee’s

I was supplied their dummys for few resin cars I’m doing for a museum. I think they look like poop. I don’t think they look good at all, and I can’t imagine how perfect your track would need to be for these not to uncouple. They actually don’t fit well together at all. The museuem cars are for a static display, so opperation isn’t a problem. Still, I want to add Kadee #58’s and cut off the uncoupling “thing”.

That would look a lot better if it was rusted.

You’'re right there Jeffery, but I think it would be premature to rust up the couplers before the car is finished.

Here’s a picture of a rusted one.

And, yes it would look better if the headlight was on, it is now but a picture of that one doesn’t show the piece of poo coupler very well.

Mounting screws:

The Modeling Tips page of that website shows 0-80 holes in the draft gear box. I would suspect that mounting to a wood floor would require a #0 screw.

Not my cup of O-cha, I’m afraid. Good old Kadees for me, thanks.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

They look 100% realistic, just missing the pin. Ever seen the real deal, or just models…

Ditto, I see couplers ever other day, and they look spot on. Am I missing something?

You might want to reference some pictures of prototype couplers, because these sergents look very much so like the real deal. That #58 is much more less prototypical than what you have mounted on that model.

I’ll agree with your first point. As for the other two points, if you read in sergent’s website, they explain why they don’t self-center or have “automatic” uncoupling. Just like the prototype couplers don’t self-center or automatically uncouple, sergent couplers follow the same idea.