Im wanted to find information on kitbashed slug units for HO scale any information would help.
Alternative 1:
http://index.mrmag.com/tm.exe?tmpl=tm_ksrch
Search term “slug” - look for articles on subject in model RR magazines:
http://index.mrmag.com/tm.exe?opt=S&cmdtext=slug&MAG=ANY
Alternative 2:
Click on link labelled “search” on the forum webpage,
http://cs.trains.com/search/
enter search term “slug”
http://cs.trains.com/search/SearchResults.aspx?q=slug&f=ODgsMTEsNzQ0LDEzLDczNA==&u=
Alternative 3:
Search terms e.g. “slug” “H0” “engine”
http://www.google.no/search?hl=no&q=slug+H0+engine&btnG=Søk&meta=
Combining those three should give you a good general start on finding more info.
Good luck!
Smile,
Stein
I was looking back through my Railroad Model Craftsman, and in there March and April 2008 issues there are articles on building a Alco slug set, two C-425’s and a RS-2, basics are simular although this set is for the CNW. Hope the monitors don’t think I’m pushing another Mag. Just passing on info.
Den
I built L&N ( now Indiana Southern RR ) Alco slug from a pair of old AHM Alco RS-2 locomotives .
It is based one built by the L&N .
Years ago I kitbashed acouple of Athearn U-boats into a N&W slug/master combo. They had taken some of their older U30B’s and electrically converted them to slugs. They left the prime movers and generators in for weight, and I think so they could still trade them in later. They used later model U30B’s for the master units. The only way to tell they were slugs was that the bells were removed and the exhaust stacks were capped. They were used at various hump yards for several years until they were finally traded in for new locomotives.
I kitbashed a road slug from a Kato GP35 a few years ago
It brings up a good point. BY slug, do you mean simply an unused cab on an otherwise standard loco? Or the lowhead version?
A few years ago, I modeled the B&M “slug set”, as this road slug was known by railfans. It included GP-40-2s BM 300 and 301 for the power source. Slug 100 was made from an old GP-9. I started with an Athearn GP-9 dummy, removed the cab and dynamic brakes, lowered the hoods and sanded the sides smooth, filled the holes with styrene and body putty, and covered it with thin styrene because the sides were not smooth enough. There was an article in MR about this over 10 years ago.
Most slugs were used in yard switching, but a few railroads experimented using them with road locomotives. The B&M slug set was built in the late 70s, and ran for at least 10 years. I have seen photos of it repainted in Guilford colors, dark gray with and orange stripe.
This is on my “to-do” list. I’ve got an N scale Atlas VO-1000 chassis I’m working with. I’m trying to figure out how to get the low profile and keep a motor in it.
Lee
Another source of information on the subject from Wikipedia
Quicky question: It would seem to me that the slow speeds usually enforced on Mountain grades would make a decent home for a Slug, yes no?
I visited a layout during the 2000 national in San Jose. The brass hat had constructed a yard slug running between two GP38s–he had used PFM/NWSL “spud” trucks for power. In addition he had constructed a road slug using a GP40 as a base; it was running between a GP40-2 and another GP40.
Lee, you’re not likely to be able to do a yard slug such as you have displayed here unless you can figure out how to eliminate the gear tower on N-Scale locomotives.
There are two ways that I reason this can be done:
Firstly, this would be possible were someone to develop a “spud-type” truck such as has been offered by PFM and NWSL over the years. Someone may possibly make a can motor short enough to fit inside the wheelbase of an AAR Type B switcher truck that I am unaware of but were one available a reduction gear mechanism driving a worm with the worm gear mounted on one of the axles would be possible; because the motor with this mechanism must, of necessity, swing with the truck, it must be of a diameter small enough to clear the frame;
a second possiblility is to mount a short 10mm diameter can motor half inside the fuel tank area and half into the hood of the unit; the shaft from this motor could drive, at a minimum, a bevel gear on at least one axle on each truck. The bevel gear on a driven axle would have to be of a small enough diameter to guarantee clearance passing through switchwork–less than a quarter of an inch in diameter which is the size of an N-Scale diesel wheel–and to achieve at least a 2:1 reduction through the gear train the drive gear for the bevel would have to be half the diameter of the bevel gear driving the axle. I do not know whether bevel gears of that size are commercially available or not but, if not, then the only way you are going to get them is to either do-it-yourself or pay a professional machinist to do the work for you.
The first mechanism