I saw an ad for Gorilla Glue in the May issue of MR and would like to know if anyone has tried it.The ad said it will bond anything and is very strong,is not a CA type.So how fast does it dry and is it as good as the ad claims ? Thanks Joe G
Ive used it to repair some antique oak dining room chairs which were getting wobbley. The joints need to be clamped or weighted for approx 3-4 hours minimum to let the glue set up. I let them dry overnight. It seems to have made really good solid joints and solved the problem. I’ll continue to use it.
Tom Watkins
I like to know if it is safe to use on foam?
I have use gorilla glue to repair chairs. It foams as it cures. I leave the chairs clamped overnight, but that might not be ncessary. It is expensive and once opened has a short shelf life - you should squeeze as much air out as possible between uses and buy small bottles. But it works great. Unfortunately, the foaming probably makes it unsuitable for most modeling applications
Enjoy
Paul
Gorilla glue is polyurethane based, and dries very slowly. I think the bottle says at least 8 hours of curing is recommended, and clamping is also suggested.
I have use Gorilla Glue for a variety of woodworking projects. I have not used it on anything other than wood. Gorilla Glue foams and EXPANDS as it cures. It takes some getting used to in that regard. It works well in pourus substances like wood because of its expanding action. It actually cures best with a little bit of moisture (dampen the surfaces to be glued prior to applying the glue). Clamping is definitely recommended since the foaming and expansion can cause your surfaces to slide or move apart. Volume control is imperative; too much glue and it seeps out of the joint as it cures. It cures extremely hard so is also extremely difficult to remove excess amounts.
It is good for joints that will be exposed to some moisture (damp basement). I would NOT use it for delicate work or to glue fine joints where appearance is important (the expansion effect seeping out of joints is not pretty). It does not take stain (found that out the hard way). I have not tried to paint it, I do not know how it will affect foam, though if it does not degrade the foam I suspect you may need to use alot of the glue to create a great joint joint since it will wick into the pourus surface of the foam.
Its good stuff if used appropriately, I don’t think fine modelling is an appropriate use for it (at least without considerable experience with it).
How 'bout trying to mount trees or signs in the layout with the glue, since it is supposed to me super strong and all. Just drill the hole, put in some glue and add the detail. Any expansion, etc. can be covered up with groundfoam.
Sounds like it would be good for benchwork.
I was at a train show a few weeks ago, and a lady was building a module out of styrofoam using Gorilla Glue. She said it was her new favorite glue.
When gluing foam, it was weighted down, and after an hour or two, it wouldn’t move. After 8 hours (Accoding to her) it was completely set up.
I doubt you’d be able to use a hot-wire foam cutter on it, and since it’s harder than foam, you’d probably have a difficult time using a surform tool on it.
But it works on foam - doesn’t dissolve the foam or anything like that.
Rob
Well here’s their web site for specific info:
[^]Gorilla Glue is wicked stuff! It is the consistency of honey or Envirotex (for you model railroders out there). It will seek its own level (like Envirotex). I used it last year when building my house to hold the metal conduit in place where it runs through the poured concrete wall into the back of an electrical outlet box. It is amazingly strong! I used a little too much and it ran down the concrete. I could chip of the runs but it did stain the concrete. I would use it with extreme caution.
I used it to repair a banister after white glue had not work on. The only drawback is the expansion as it cures. Despite heavily clamping it, there was some oozing that required cleanup and that was not easy as it is very viscous and extremely sticky. It is also toxic to your skin so where gloves or avoid getting it on you. I can see where is would have its uses, but Elmers is still really good stuff. - Nevin
Thanks for the replies.I have decided not to use it on my wooden structure kits. Joe G.