Have a Beef with the Midnight Chief?

Anyone currently have or previously owned a K-Lionel (or K-Line) Alco FA aa locos? I have some questions: (a search proved fruitless)

  1. Is the powered unit basically the same as the K-Lionel S-2 switcher, with just a different body shell?

  2. My S-2’s motors growl and vibrate at low speeds (especially under load)–same for the FA?

  3. The horn on the S-2 is quite anemic–and the FA’s?

What attracts me to it is its small size, fixed pilot design, and the “Midnight Chief” color scheme.

Any help will be most appreciated,

Donna

Donna I previously owned both FA/b and Sw2 switchers from K-line (not k-lionel) and never had a problem witht hem. in fact the sw2 I would of put up aghainst about anything for power as they were some of the strongest engines I’ve ever runned the only thing was when you got a good size load you may have needed a little mor weight over the trucks as it had the power but not the whole weight it needed. that being said the worst engine ever owned was a lionel texas special it was so light that it could hardley pull 3 cars without starting to spin.

Now as power unit being the same I would think so just a different frame but not sure might be wrong here but do know companies like that usually tried to reuse the same engine in different trains to cut down on inventory and cost of mulitble designs.

This is normal for those engines. It results from the fact that the E-unit feeds unfiltered, full-wave-rectified AC to the motors. The resulting waveform has sharp spikes, and this causes the growl you are hearing. The solution I have used is to wire a nonpolarized electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the motors. I don’t remember the capacitance value I used, but suffice it to say that the more capacitance you use, the better, and be sure to use a nonpolarized electrolytic capacitor. This virtually eliminates the growl. You will still hear some gear noise, but it won’t be nearly as bad as the growl.

Richard Bjorkman

Donna, let me start by saying I really like these two locomotives and have quite a few of them.

One of my Alco’s done up in a “what if” Penn Central scheme

They are affordable locos, with some good qualities - but they have a few easily remedied liabilities. What Richard says above makes sense to me, and seems like a pretty neat idea. But I have some other personal observations about these locos:

  1. These locos have dual DC can motors made by Mabuchi. While these are decent, dependable motors, they are not precision and do not always run at the same speed. You can see this on some locos by turning them upside down, and with power on the roller and the ground frame, you can see this pretty clearly. This certainly could contribute to some of the growl noise.

  2. Traction tires. K-Line put them all over the place over the years. But for the most part, there were two on each truck, placed diagionally: one on the left of one wheel set, and the other on the right wheel of the other wheel set on the same motor truck. On tight 027 curves, this absolutely can contribute to growl noise. Notice that while single DC motor locos don’t have the same pulling power, they also do not make the same growl noise. My Lionel Industrial Switchers and Columbia type 4-4-2 steamers do not make the same growl noise, even with the circuit board e-units in them.

I run my layout on DC current and have removed the circuit board e-units from most of my locos. While what Richard says makes sense, I do have a couple of dual DC can motored locos with their circuit board units intact because they do not make the same growl noise, for reasons I cannot figure out.

One of many S-2’s, this one redone in Norfolk Southern with ad

Thanks to all for the well informed responses, which educated me.

After opening up the S-2, the space between the two motors seems a likely spot to pack some fishing weights into. While I haven’t experienced any derailments or slipping (that I can tell) on the layout’s 036 curves, the 1 lb. 11 oz. weight of the loco is very light compared to the nine mixed 027 and scale freight cars’ combined weight that it currently tows (for comparison, the Lionel Dockside Switcher is a more solid 2 lb. 10 oz.) I’ll see if a few oz. of lead will fit in there.

Certainly, these little critters provide a lot of bang for the buck–and brianel027, what you’ve accomplished with yours (judging from the photos) is terrific…makes them look anything but low dollar units. Nice work.

Donna

Donna, I put big fishing weights in my K-Line switchers and MPC Geeps. Makes them pull a lot more and run smoother. Also, I remove the fuels tank [if it has one and not a hollow area] and add weights. I use windshield sealing rope from auto parts store. Will take only a small amount and will hold anything forever. Pull off a piece, stick it on the weight and stick weight where you want it. Will stay.

Well, I learn something ever day. I never heard of using the windshield sealing rope… good idea Chief.

The K-Line S-2 has a decorative fuel tank unlike the “container” type used on some Lionel diesels. I’ve used a Dremel to reshape the K-Line one, so that I can add weight to it. Weight can also be attached to the shell of the S-2. You can also add a little more weight to the existing “U” channel weights already in the S-2. Attach the weights with Velcro so that if you need access, you can easily take the weights off.

The key is to balance the addition of extra weight over both motorized trucks. There’s a little more room inside the Alco FA to add weight. Plus the “fuel tank” is part of the shell, so weights can be added beneath the frame on the Alco FA if it one without sound… you don’t want to block the sound holes. Since I remove the circuit board reverse unit, adding extra weight is much easier. I have a Lionel Industrial Switcher on the layout now, pulling a dozen cars. The key is additional weight and removal of the circuit board helps immensely.

Many complain these types of K-Line locos (Alco FA, S-2, MP-15 and similar Lionel ones with dual DC can motors mounted in the trucks) will not run slowly which is hogwash. You need to use a transformer with a zero starting voltage to the track. Most postwar Lionel transformers and many smaller MPC ones have a minimal starting voltage of 6 volts to the track… not good for these kinds of locos.