I wonder if you guys have tried photoetching in this hobby? Please tell me what you did and how you did it.
If I understand it correctly you can make very small details this way.
I am in the process of discovering this process to make big alco sides for CPR M636s…The process is some what simple, but requires accurate work.
David
The etching itself is a messy process involving some pretty nasty chemicals which you have to do in a light proof tank or a darkroom.
You can only make small details if you have the drafting or CAD skills to produce the artwork. Producing good photo-etch artwork is a skill. I have a freind who does it - he is what I would call a Master Modeller (been around in the modelling world for decades runs a small side business producing cast and etched parts to help his own model making) - but even he won’t actually do the etching himself he send the artwork off to a company who specialise in it.
Can be done but its no easy solution.
I bought the Micro Mark etching kit as a learning tool. I have made drawings for stainless steel diaphragm plates and the hairpin type station fence used on the New Haven but haven’t had time to get to the negative and exposing part yet.
The kit only makes small parts, so don’t be planning on car sides or anything like that. I use TurboCad Pro to do the drawings which allows me make a “mirror” copy of the back side, and print them out. You need to have software to reverse the drawing or learn how to draw in reverse which is too difficult for my brain. So I scan them to Photoshop and use the revert feature and save to file. I then set up a page size the same size as the etched sheet in Pagemaker and “place” the drawings on it which can then be printed on the ink jet paper provided.
Google “brass etching” and you will find tons of very educational material on this subject
I did PC board etching for circuits, you sit there rocking the tray to help move the etching solution…boring! I want an auto rocker. Its tricky and if you do it wrong, messy and dangerous.
You could use PC board photo-etching kits, theres a photactive spray you spray on a board or metal piece, expose it, then develop it, (removes photoed or non-photoed areas, depending on type you get) then etch it away.
Best for edge on details. Today technologies are using laser cutting and thats in 3D cutting.Needs a computer guided laser. But when you can burn 3D images into clear plastic, thats cool.
BTW the Micro Mark kit includes a small air pump and etching tank that bubbles air up through the etchant so no rocking is necessary. Since you are etching both sides at once you are done when you can see the part is etched through. This minimizes undercutting.
There is also another process that allows printing on a special paper with a laser printer and then using a laminator to laminate it directly to the metal. This permits 7" x 10" etchings. It uses an open tank method where the plate can be brushed repeatedly with a paint brush to insure fresh etchant is always in contact with the metal. My experience with that method is that it is necessary to adjust your printer configuration to the maximum toner use which can be done with most HP laser printers.
Keep in mind that detailed parts such as HW passenger car sides with several layers of rivets and window sashes, etc. require multi stage etching to bring each layer down separately. The end result is a work of art.
Haven’t actually tried it myself, but here’s some good reading about it.