I’ve got an Atlas C30-7 to which I’m planning on adding a Soundtrax DSX-150 (it already has a Digitrax DH-163IP for motor/accessory control). I think I can make adequate space in the radiator compartment for a 1" speaker, but space inside the shell is tight for the decoder itself. Thus, I expect I’m going to need to cut down the rear weight, as I’ve seen done in at least one such conversion on the web.
However, let’s just say that I’m more than a little paranoid about lead, particularly having an almost-four-year-old around the house, along with having a life-long interest in environmental matters. I guess I’m more “spooked” about working with it than I am about working with solvent-based paints (where, at least I can work most of the time with acrylics, and have the paint booth and chemical mask for protection from fumes.)
While I’m thinking of doing the cutting out in the garage, away from living spaces, I still will end up an amount of lead “sawdust”. I’m thinking of putting plastic under/around the mitre box to try to contain it, but that still leaves the question of what to do with the dust once I’m done. I’m reasonably sure that I could just wrap up said plastic, drop it in the trash can, and no-one would ever notice, although I’m also fairly sure this is also illegal (for example, lead is one of the reasons it’s now illegal in many, if not most, states to dump a TV or computer monitor into the trash). I’m also not particularly thrilled with just wiping off anything else to which the lead dust will have come in contact.
So, what have other people come up with around this problem? I seem to recall that there services out there to do machining/milling like this- any recommendations? How have others dealt with this? I know I’m paranoid, but am I paranoid-enough? [?]
The frame isn’t lead and I don’t think there ever was a frame that was 100% lead. If it concerns you that much cut it outside over a trash can but there is nothing in there that will cause harm from just cutting it. Now if you take it to several thousand degrees and give off vapors that is a different story. You run more risk from the lead in the solder joints of your plumbing then in that frame.
Most locomotive frames are a Zinc alloy, not lead, so I don’t think there is anything to be concerned about as far as disposing of the filings.
If you type the word zinc into Google and then click on the link that begins with “History: German Zinc…” you can learn more than you ever wanted to know about zinc.
Get a shop vac with a good filtration system and vacuum up after and during the cutting, if you cut lead. Having said that however, most loco frames are not lead.
I have environmental concerns also, but I feel lead is a political pollutant. If it’s out of the gas where it did go everywhere, and you don’t let your kids eat old paint chips, and you don’t cast lead yourself, you shouldn’t have a problem. The inert solid form is safe as houses, and because of it’s great density, any ‘dust’ isn’t going far at all.
Never said the frame is lead. [:)] The frame of the loco is plastic.
However, the weight on top of the frame, which extends all the way to the top of the hood, appears to be lead. That’s what I’m concerned about. Although I haven’t tested its’ specific gravity, the appearance of this weight is far closer to the lead weights that I use in my cars, or the lead sheet I’ve got from Loy’s Toys for baffling the speaker, than the zinc frames of my old Athearn locos. However, I guess it could be zinc instead of lead- the lustre/hardness is similar, once oxidation is considered.
OK, maybe I was being too paranoid. Maybe it’s all the labels required stating something along the lines of “This substance is known by the state of CA to cause cancer”, problems with lead poisoning due to fish, paint in old houses, etc.
Anyway, I’ll just “handle with care”. Thanks, all.
Try the diamond test on your lead weight. Instead of biting the weight, try cutting it with a diagonal pliers or sheet metal shears. Lead is soft enough that you shoujld be able to slice right through it with these hand tools. If all you can do is make a slight indentation in the weight, it is a zinc alloy, commonly referred to as zamac.
If you can slice through the weight with the hand tools, you have solved your fillings/sawdust problem.
Keep in mind somthing else, lead is soft enough that will probably clog the teethe on your file and fill in the rough spots on a cutting disk. Also, since lead is a component of solder, you can use a soldering tool to melt the lead away instead of cutting it.
I’m not sure if the weight is lead or not, but my recommendation would be to simply use a hack or razor saw, and do your cutting over the trash can with a bag liner in it. You won’t be creating that much dust, and will be able to quickly and cleanly dispose of it.
In spite of our best efforts to remove lead from our environment, it is still a common and necessary element. We have over the years managed to considerably reduce our children’s exposure to lead by removing it from paint, gasoline, and plumbing solder. Of course that effort has raised awareness of potential health consequences surrounding lead.
As I understand it, the real danger from lead, and other heavy metals, such as cadmimum and arsenic, comes from prolonged and repeated exposure. The body cannot easily rid itself of these elements, and they build up to toxic levels. Children are even more suceptable to poisoning, because their lower body mass results in higher concentrations at equal exposure.
By today’s standards, even printed circuit boards are considered hazardous material, and are supposed to be disposed of in a proper way, because the solder contains lead. But how many do you think find their way into the landfill? This is a big reason we recycle large batteries, such as car batteries, and pay a fee to do so.
OK, yeah, I suspect I was over-worried about this all. [B)]
As the weight is almost 3/4" thick, I don’t think I’ll be cutting it with any shears I have. I was planning on using a hacksaw to cut it, so even if I destroy a blade on it (which I doubt), it’s no great loss. Heck, that hacksaw has probably seen worse anyway- my grandfather “creatively acquired” it from the arsenal he worked in during WWII. [}:)]
As Big Boy implies, I guess there is a point at which one can have a little too much knowledge. Guilty as charged.
So, I guess for right now this goes on hold while I finish getting over the flu- not going to work in the garage, even in relatively warm Washington, until I’m well. Just as well- rather than getting really tricky/detailed by replacing the cast-on mesh of the radiator housing with super-detailing mesh, I’m trying a tip I’ve seen one or two places, and drilling holes. Even without having tinted the plastic inside the holes, looks pretty-good, almost passing the “Three Foot Rule”. Only problem is, it took about an hour to drill out approximately 1/8 of the entire grille. I guess I’ll be watching more of The History Channel this week. [:D]
with any hazmat disosal is key… all you have to do is take it to your local fire dept. and they will dispose of it properly… I would contact them first to make sure they have the capability.
Chuck,
I’m glad you posted that. I’ve read over this and still can’t understand the problem. At best, he’ll end up
with a handfull of shavings… sweep them up and throw them away. Problem solved.[banghead] [:D] Dave
As stated by Leon, lead is very soft, I have worked with lead in my earlier days, and you can literally slice off pieces with a sharp knife, or utility blade knife. If you can do that, it is lead, if not, you are safe to saw it without worry, but use safety glasses, metal particles sometimes fly off the blade, or, you forget and rub a dry eye…bad move !!!
Just do the “shave” test.
the amount of lead dust you would make is neglegable. just do not use a compressed air source to blow it around. you should worry more about people throwing away flashlight batteries, watch batteries and other types of batteries.these are more dangerous than a 1/4 teaspoon of whatever metal you cut.
I melt lead to cast bullets for my muzzle loading rifle, have been doing it for years. I have only background traces of lead in my body, just like everyone else on earth. I place my waste in ziplok bags and ship them with the garbage. Those plastic bags will not biodegrade before the world ends, and I do not believe the world will end. You are not dealing with lead anyhow. The frame metal is most likely a zinc alloy and will not harm you. If it is not zinc based, then it will be a bismuth alloy, also not a threat to life around you. If you are concerned about poisons in your life, take an oxygen bottle with you when you drive your vehicle so you do not breath automotive exhaust. Or eat only natural grains instead of the chemically treated cereals the rest of us ingest. I do hope you live forever. I will not. No matter what I do, the day will come when people stand and tell lies about what a great guy I was, and then plant me in the ground. Too bad I can’t take my trains with me.
I worked in a radiator repair shop for 3 years and handled lead everyday there. I was tested every 6 months for lead exposure and had no elevated levels in my blood whatsoever. I did however have a coworker who was an avid pistol reloader and he tested high. I doubt that cutting one weight if it is even lead based will be a great medical concern. Just take normal working precautions.
I see you don’t live in CA, so don’t worry about it. Lead is in a lot of things, and unless you cut loco weights every day you shouldn’t have problems.