I have a Athearn P40 that I need to replace the headlights on. For the main light, which on the prototype is 2 lights right next to each other, do I need 1 bulb or 2?
Thanks,
I have a Athearn P40 that I need to replace the headlights on. For the main light, which on the prototype is 2 lights right next to each other, do I need 1 bulb or 2?
Thanks,
I assume you talking adding a dual headlight in place of a single. On the cab I had to change from a vertical light to a set of horizontal lights. I had to add a dual nose light the model didn’t have. I used led’s to light up the lights and if you notice on the cab it not only lights up the dual headlight, but also the red mars light just fine. The led in the nose lights the dual nose light ok also. Best that I can do, others are much better at it.
Do a Search and check out a company called Details West or Detail Associates. They sell light kits that you can mold into the nose of your locomotives. They aren’t very expensive and with a little modeler’s putty, some cutting, filing, and sanding, the light kit can be installed. I used to use LED lights but since going DCC I have found that installing a 1.5 volt bulb per light socket connected to a resistor on one wire and then to the decoder works great. The 1.5 volt bulbs fit real well into the light sockets with some clear bathroom silicone caulk applied in and behind with a toothpick to hold them in place. The yellow glow from the 1.5 bulbs is more prototype then the bright bluish white light of an LED. I’ve even used the 1.5 volt lights and scratch built ditch lights on some of my locomotives using the DEtail Associates ditch light parts.
[#ditto]
I used Detail West parts mostly. Being DC only on my layout I wanted the quicker light up of the LED’s. CW I am inclined to agree with you on the color issue, but to avoid the philsophical discussions we both want to avoid , I think pre 90’s maybe the yellowish look is more proto I think the new Headlights being used these days are really very white. I kinda prefer the whiter look.
Sorry. I should have made it clearer. The shell and the prototype has 2 openings in the body shell. I was wondering if I need 2 bulbs right next to each other, or can I use one and the light will shine from both holes.
I already have the bulbs. Apperantly they are rated for DCC without resistors.
Here is a photo of a P40. The lights I am talking about are the ones between the red lights, right under the Amtrak lettering.
Sorry again for the confusion,
Problematic :
If the insert plastic provided has a prizm effect built in , 1 bulb should be fine. I guess someone with one of these units already could help more than us then. I guess we went into overkill mode on you. [:I]
That’s OK. I don’t think there is a prism.
Does anyone have one of these that can help? Even if you’ve never replaced them, how many does the origanal straight from the box have?
Anyone???
I don’t have that particular loco but have used one bulb to light a twin bulb socket. You said you have the bulb(s) and they are DCC ready. These may be 12 to 16 volt bulbs. They can be used and definitely use only one because they generate a lot more heat, enough to melt the body shell.
I have had sucess covering the bulb with shrink wrap tubing and shrinking it down. I then cut a small opening in the side of the bulb to let light out. Mount the bulb sideways, using silicone or Goo, with the open side toward the headlight openings. This will direct the light out front where you want it and the shrink wrap will protect the body shell from the heat.
Good luck and have fun.
Tilden
It’s prism.
I hate to be contrary, but would recommend an LED because of the aforementioned heat issue.
All my DC locos had micro bulbs with constant lighting circuits before I switched to DCC back in august, '06. A couple of my engines suffered from melted roofs, which promted me to quickly switch everything to LEDs. (I did repair the melted roofs and had to repaint them, with some juditious weathering I was able to blend everything). The units with ditch lights still have the bulbs, but the castings are metal and so are not really a problem.
Tyler,
I have installed fiber optics in the light housing on three of the four models I own. It is a bit time consuming, but it works fine. There is enough room to have the fiber gradually sweep up to the top of the shell where a warm white led illuminated it.
Hope this helps,
Bruce
Thanks everyone. I had thought this subject was dead. I will use 1 so I don’t melt anything!
I will post a photo once I get it done (probobly not soon)