While I am no expert carpenter, I do take an interest in how people build the benchwork for their train layouts. I have seen some monster benchwork that would probably hold a 1:1 scale train and others that were at risk if someone sneezed.
Heavy-duty benchwork has the advantages of strength, rigidity, resistance to warping and the ability to walk on the layout for access. The downside is expense, weight, lack of portability, more drilling required for wiring. I once saw an HO layout in Birmingham back in the 70’s that had 2x6 legs and crossmembers with 3/4 inch tongue & groove plywood! If we were under attack, I’d want to hide under that layout. Still, it seemed like a waste of lumber to me.
Light-weight benchwork has the advantages of less expense, less weight, and possible portability. It can be made to be strong and rigid (using L-girders, for example). I have seen Aluminum and PVC used for structural members (which can actually increase the cost). The downsides can be: May not hold as much weight, more susceptible to flexing and warping.
Personally, I think that the method of construction is as important as the materials. I am planning to go with lighter weight benchwork, carefully braced, with heavy-duty casters to allow the layout to be moved around in the workshop.
Do you tend to build heavy weight or light weight?
I like a heavy duty outer frame and light weight in between. Light weight doesn’t necessarily mean weak. Depands on the material that you use and how it is used. In the past I have used intersecting wire along with polyfoam. Pretty light but with the wire reinforcement it’s kind of like concrete. As far as the HO layout you saw in the 70s…remember this, lumber was LOTS cheaper in the 70s (even in to the 80s) even adjusted for inflation. I was looking at pre made fence sections for my apartment building the other day. The sections that I had bought in the late 80s for $12.99 are now $2 to $46!!!
It sounds like the idea you have will work great…strength with portability!
I used the methods shown in “Model Railroad Benchwork”, Linn H. Westcott, Kalmbach Books. Using the L girt system 1 X 's can be used and still provide a good solid frame. I used 5/8" plywood as my deck and I have no problem kneeling on the layout where there’s any space left. My framing is such that after cutting the scenery I can separate it into individual tables.
Dr. John:
I’m in agreement, light weight bench work is the way to go. I just ordered six
10" adjustible height casters. Which I’m going to attach to the legs so I can easily roll my 5 1/2’ x 17-foot layout away from the wall.
When it comes to the foundation for your layout, i don’t see any rationale for skimping like most people do. i use 2x4s in L girder. I’ve seen thinner sections of wood and there is a slight shake if you bump it.
Don’t go light, would be my advice.
Some guys use beams and 2 X6 and larger so by comparison, mine is modest.
Besides, 2X4s are cost efficient to purchase as they are the building standard. Why not stick to the building standard w/your layout as well.
if an earthquake ever levels your house or a tornado lifts your house up to the kingdom of oz, a sturdy table will at least afford more protection if you duck underneath it in time
I use unframed 1/2-inch BC plywood stiffened as needed by steel angles attached with carriage bolts and supported where needed by PVC legs attached with eyebolts.
I guess I’m in the heavy category - I put my 7 foam boards atop a layer of collapsed cardboard boxes left over from moving, then a plastic vapor barrier and five+ feet of rock fill hemmed in by concrete walls in a raised crawl space.
My former layout was only 3 by 5: I made a box with a plywood top and pine sides and under-bracing and added folding table legs to the underside.
I may be in the heavy category, although I am amenable to reform. I built two tables, one with industrial 5" casters so it could be moved, and the other with legs the same length as the first one w/casters so they were level. 2 x 4 framing for 3/4 inch plywood with 4 x4 legs and 2 x 4 cross bracing. Little bit of overkill for O Gauge, but they handled a small block chevy (my other hobby) quite nicely.
I’m using 2 x 4s simply because they are cheaper. 2 x 4 stud length is less than $2 per hereabouts, but It’d cost me $4 per + screws and glue to make the same length L-girder out of 1 x 2 + 1 x 3. Mine will be open grid, so no heavy plywood top across the expanse. I’m going to use CDC, cookie-cutter sub-roadbed. Neither weight nor mobility are issues for me, as one side will be bolted to the wall studs. The legs for the side away from the wall will also be 2 x 4s. “Skirting” will be in the form of fabricated bookcases matching the others in the room.
The most important thing is to put the benchwork together with screws.
About 9 years ago we built a layout for a museuim.
The local town wanted to save some money so they had a local carpenter build it from our blueprints.
The carpenter decided screws were overkill and nailed it together.
It was late fall and I refused to start building it until they screwed it together. The layout is 8’ by 24’ so it needed to be ridgid to keep the HO track in line,.
By spring the entire layout had shifited, nails moved. It was a mess. You see it was in a depot that was not temp controled at all.
Now we got somewhere and got heat and airconditioning, and a dehumidfier.
It all stays quite nice now and yes the layout got screwed together by us before we started it.
In case you want to see it, it is at the “End Of Line Park” in Currie MN. There is a web site in case you want to look.
DAve.
Dave, I agree. Screws are a no-brainer for speed, stability and strength. I use various length drywall screws with a cordless drill. I love it!
Guys, thanks for all of the input. One thing I had not considered that has been brought up - it is more economical to buy 2x4s than it is to purchase 1xs and have extra bracing. Food for thought.
Try using Trim Head Square Drive Screws. Your drill won’t cam out like it does sometimes with Phillips screws. I found them only a bit more expensive but so much easier to work with.
BillFromWayne www.modeltrainjournal.com
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QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter
For about the fifth time we dig into the CTT forum archives BTW, if you want the scanned plans just email me and I will send you the .bmp files showing the dimensions of the bench work.
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QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter
[#welcome] to the CTT forum.
Here is an old posting that we just keep recirculating
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QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter
Last year, Chief Eagles stopped by when he was in Wheeling, WV at the grand opening of the Cabela’s store. He wanted to see what I was doing and how it performed. One of the advantages and disadvantages that I have is the slope of the ceiling reflects the sound out to the operator and viewers.
[quote]
QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter
Thank you Chief for those kind words. [:)][:)] I know it is hard for you to say such benevolent statements about a YANKEE from Buckeye Land. [:D]
And now on to the foam. Yes, my whole layout sits on foam. It is high-density 2" foam purchased at Home Depot, one of my favorite stores. The foam sits on joists at approximately 16" spacing. On top of the high density foam sits the 1" white foam.
Again, the Chi
Drywall screws are okay for layout structure that won’t be supporting a person. However, they are very brittle, shear easily, and should not be used for anything that might cause injury if it broke.
Deck screws have about the same profile, will resist the rusting effects of scenery better, and also come in Robertson head and Star head varieties. They aren’t so brittle.
I believe that the benchwork should be a function of the layout design. If if will be a larger field that is not fully accessable by reach then it should be strong enough to support a person if they have to walk on it for one reason or another. I everything can be reached from the perimeter then the overbuild is not really required. [2c]
