Group,
I could use a little help as I am nearing completion of my first Helix (N scale). The project is going much better than I anticipated. I spent a lot of unnecessary anxiety worrying about construction difficulties that didn’t occur! Maybe that’s because I read a lot of comments on this forum and was able to anticipate issues.
But, I would appreciate any suggestions you could offer on the transition to the upper level. By looking at it, I would think it would be best to transition the sub roadbed out of the helix just above the upper level bench work? I am building a mountain railroad so lots of elevation changes but want to avoid a “hump”.
Any thoughts?
Tim
Cut you top and bottom levels with a long tail. Join it deep into the first or last turn of the helix and stretch it out a good 3 to 6 feet beyond the helix, thus there is no join at the transition for grade to not-grade, and the ROW is supposed then to find its own easments into the grade changes.
PS, your helix MUST have a LION on it.
ROAR
I’m afraid I don’t quite understand your question, but I’ll try what I think might be a useful response: you should let the plywood roadbed do what it wants between about seven or eight full inches of securely screwed-down ends of the transition plank. You fasten the end still on the grade AT grade with at least four screws set in two rows about six inches apart. You’ll have to fashion a proper sub-roadbed surface for that purpose with that surface also at grade at that location on the helix.
Then, at the far end, where the track is meant to be level, you do the same type of anchoring…two rows of two wood screws at least 1.25" deep into the sub-roadbed. So, with both ends firmly held in their proper attitudes, the resultant curve between the two anchored ends is the transition. I would expect the whole plank would have to be at least three feet in length for the transition to be good enough that tracks properly laid on it would provide secure traction for the driving wheels of the locomotives, particularly sprung steamer drives of the eight or ten-coupled variety.
At the midpoint, to add some insurance and support, you snug up (only) a riser anchored to something on the frame.
Selector,
Your response was spot on to my question. Thank you. I have about 5 feet to get back to level from the helix so I should be fine.
Thanks again,
Tim
Roar,
Thank you for your suggestion. It was very helpful.
Tim