Hi all!
New to the forum. Has anyone built a helix on their HO layout and how would an old guy, new modeler do so?
Thanks for the help
A fellow whose user name is Brunton (Mark) has a peerless helix, in my opinion, and if anyone could talk you through one of those space hawgs, it would be he. You can try a search in the search function under “Forum Jump” at lower right of this text box, or do an advanced search for helix and Brunton. Something will pop up.
I typed in “helix,Brunton” and this was the first of several possibilities offered by the search function:
[:-^]
Welcome MajorTom,
I will not dwell on this topic here. I have built and do use one. For starters go to the bottom of this thread to the search blank and button. Insert the word Helix and click on the button and that will take you to all the threads that have discussed the pros and cons and methods of building a helix… Do that first and then come back with any other questions.
Glad to have you on board Tom, I look forward to following your progress. Click on to the Elliot’s Diner thread as well. A lot of us gather there and have quite a lot of fun and laughs and a lot of support in many ways for each other.
Johnboy out…
James:1 Verse:5
Welcome, Sir, to the forum!!!
Helices are like noses: everybody has one. Actually, not everyone, but multi-deck layouts seem to be one of the supereminent indices of late and helices seem to be the preferred method of negotiating the transition between these decks. They take up a lot of space and - particularly in HO Scale - they require relatively large radii to keep the grades tolerable.
I have made a few disparaging comments about multi-deck layouts in the past here on the forum but I may well wind up having to digest a little crow on this matter since I have to own up that I have recently been giving consideration to a multi-deck layout design. The late John Armstrong had a multi-deck layout design a number of years back that utilized a long ramp as the transition mechanism; as soon as I get my library organized I will have to locate this issue and see if there is something usable there. I would much prefer a ramp to a helix.
If you can, pick up a copy of the 2008 Model Railroad Planning. It has an article on the subject.
The most important thing with a helix is minimizing the grade without making the diameter so big that it eats up half your layout space. Certain factors such as the minimum vertical clearance (3" in HO per NMRA Standard S-7) above the rails and the height of the track itself are essentially fixed. That means you need to keep the roadbed and sub roadbed thin.
First, don’t use cork or foam roadbed. Just attach the track directly to the plywood sub roadbed. Helixes are typically hidden and cork or foam roadbed are primarily cosmetic and sound deadening.
The thinnest roadbed I would feel comfortable with is two layers of 1/8" plywood laminated together with wood glue. I would personally cut 45 degree arcs from the plywood of the desired radius. Laminate two of those together with the joints in each layer staggered at least 15 degrees. Keep on going until you have the number of turns you need to make your climb.
To support the roadbed, do one of two things. Either take 1 x 2 lumber and cut 1/4" knotches every 3 1/2 inches and use those on each side of the helix roadbed to support the helix. Otherwise, if you make your roadbed a little wider, simply drill holes for a threaded rod to pass through and use nuts to support each level of the helix. With either method, you’ll probably want to support the helix every 45 degrees or so.
As previously mentioned, I would space the levels every 3 1/2 inches with with thin roadbed method. That comes from the 3 inch minimum clearance, the 1/4 inch sub roadbed thickness, and the ~3/16 inch track height, leaving 1/16 inch of spare clearance for error.
Now your maximum grade will drive the helix track radius. Say the maximum you can live with is 2%. Thus you’ll need 175 inches of track to c
Hello, majortom,
Ground control here. (har, har! - For those who don’t get that, don’t worry about it).
I’m the one with the “peerless” helix (thanks for the kind words, Crandell!).
Your question is rather tough to answer - too general, I’m afraid. There are several different ways to build a helix, all of them good. What approach depends on the specifics of your layout, your skills and your desires.
Some questions YOU need to answer are:
- How much space can you devote to a helix?
- What length train will you be trying to move up the helix?
- What grade is acceptable (ties in closely with question 2)?
- What’s your skill level at benchwork construction (woodworking)?
- What’s your skill level at track laying?
- What’s your patience limit for running a train that’s out of sight?
- Do you expect this layout to last for years, or is it a shorter-term one?
And so on.
While answering these questions, keep these thoughts in mind:
- Helices take up a LOT of real estate. A 24" radius helix, for example, requires an area (assuming a square) a minimum of 40" on a side. That’s nearly HALF a sheet of plywood. If you have a 5’ X 10’ layout, you’ve used up twenty-two percent (over one fifth) of your layout footprint on a helix. That’s a lot. Obviously the blocked footprint doesn’t have to be a square, but it makes for simpler calculations and illustrated the point well.
2 & 3. If you want to run a 40-car freight up the helix, you’ll need a LOT of head-end power, unless your helix curve radius is broad - VERY broad. For example, with a 30" radius, the grade is 2.1%, allowing for a 4" rise between levels, railhead to railhead (you can reduce that by about 1/2" by using thin roadbed). Not bad, right? But there’s a joker in the deck - the drag of the train on the curve adds to the drag of the grade, giving rise t
Hello!
I have been thinking of building an open helix as a spiral around a mountain. This kind of helix will allow easy access and can add a lot of scenery. There can be cuts in the mountainside so you need bridges. You can also have some parts of the spiral in short tunnels. Another advantage (?) is that you can build it in foam if that is a material you like. You can also have different grades in different pars of the helix because you don’t need a clearence above. The only exception is of course where the track is leaving the helix on the top.
Regards
Nils-Olov
Majortom,
Another alternative is to look at the Noch Helix system. This is a pre-made helix that seems to slot together, the vertical spacing of the spirals is maintained by metal posts. It’s meant for European set radius track, but flex track would do. There’s a range of radii.
Noch’s website has details - not sure if the long link below will work.
If it doesn’t, try www.noch.de and in the “Produktsuche” box on the left type in 53001, the nclick on the yellow picture on the right. Other parts of the range are in the 530XX series.
Euro Rail Hobbies list it on their site, but I can’t find any details. Basic details are on
Regards,
Ian