Hello all,
This is my first post to this forum. I have just recently gotten back into the hobby after 30 years. I am about sixty percent done on a 4’ x 11’ N-scale layout that I started last September. The first third depicts actual locations in Alaska and the rest; I just let my imagination run wild. When I get further along, I will share some photos.
I currently have two Kato locos (AC4400cw and SD70MAC) along with a couple of cheapy Bachmans. Running stock consists of eight coal hoppers (Kato) and three passenger cars (Bachman) plus some cabooses.
In the process of building I have learned many things, two of which are:
Watch your grades and
Make sure your track is laid as flat as possible.
A single loco can barely pull the hoppers plus a caboose up a grade which I estimate is about six to seven percent. The wheels spin. I have also been working out kinks in the track (generally around corners) where the hoppers derail. It seems that where I drive the nails to hold the track (Atlas code 80) down, it warps the track enough to derail the cars. Or maybe I am asking too much from these models. Has anyone else had this type of problem?
In the mail, I have a MRC Prodigy Advance plus the Digitrax decords for the Katos. Is it possible to run the two Kato locos in tandem to pull the hoppers up the grade (will this system allow me to do that)?
In a way it is quite frightening to think I have a layout that I have sunk some much money (about a grand) and time into a layout that may possibly be unworkable. On the other hand it has been quite fun trying to figure out how to make things work.
Cheers and stay warm (currently -12 in Anchorage)
Peter
I’m in HO scale but the way i nail the track down is with a a small hammer and a punch and i only nail down the track until the nail head is snug against the tie… if the nail is in so far that it bends the tie, it will get it out of gauge…another thing is to use a level when installing the subroadbed…it should be level from side to side of the rail more than up and down with the track…some people super elevate their track but that works on the outside rail only…chuck
[RED]Quote From Imodelalaska In the mail, I have a MRC Prodigy Advance plus the Digitrax decords for the Katos. Is it possible to run the two Kato locos in tandem to pull the hoppers up the grade (will this system allow me to do that)?[RED]
Yes Most DCC system will do what is refered to as a consists. This will allow you to control 2 or more locos as one. I have been playing with this feature with my system and works great.
[#welcome] Welcome back to the hobby! I too returned a while back after 18 years of doing other things.
Yes. What you are talking about is consisting. The PA supports this. There are some really good posts here with detailed discussions of the various DCC systems, including the PA. Just use the advanced search for the forums and change the date range to search to include all of 2005.
Something to think about to prevent the nailing from warping the track is gluing it to the roadbed. I use full strength white glue. Once the additional glue from ballasting is added, the track isn’t going anywhere unless you use a hammer and chisel on it!
BBRRRR!!! I still remember those days from my stay at Elmendorf AFB 22 years ago! Keep the parka nearby!
Sounds like you have most of your ducks all lined up. Driving nails in to far does disrort rails on the ends, like the others said before. Your grade seems to be a bit much, how long is your grade?
I will have to take actual messurements but it is about three and three quarters inches over approximently three and a half feet. Will measure tonight to make sure.
Thank you for the information.
I rarely put nails into my track. I glue it down with Elmer’s which holds it in place until the track is ballasted. The glued ballast will keep in firmly in place permanently. The only time I use a nail is when a curve puts enough pressure on the track that the glue won’t hold it in place. In that case, I just drive the nail down to rail level and this keeps the track in place until the ballast has set. I only drive the nail far enough to allow me to make test runs prior to applying the ballast.
Are either of you from the Palmer area? I went to a LeadAmerica conference with a couple guys from there this summer.
As far as what you’re using, the Kato and Atlas stuff is some of the best out there. Are you nailing in every hole, or spacing them out a lot? You really need something in each hole. Just noticed you’re in N-scale. That’s quite a layout I’d imagine! That is a really steep grade though. You can probably work with it by consisting diesels, but steam’s gonna be a no-go.
Not me. I only spent 2 years in Alaska in the mid 80’s. Elmendorf AFB on the outskirts of Anchorage was my first assignment in a 9 year Air Force career. Best assignment I had and the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen. Haven’t been back since I was reassigned in 1985. [:(]
I live in Eagle River, about 25 minutes south of Palmer.
I did place a nail in every hole however I think because my surface is not totally flat and smooth, the track is warping just enough to cause the derailments. When I took the nails out and left it free floating the derailments stopped in some cases. In others, I think it is because the curve is too great. I don’t think the Kato couplers were really made for this kind of environment. Thanks for the info!
Ahh, Eagle River. We used to go out to Thunderbird Falls in the summer and hike the trails. West High class of '73 here. When I left, Northern Lights Blvd. was still a two-way street. [:)]
I messured up the run last night and following the curve, I have about 3 1/4 inches over 5 feet or about 5.5% grade. Still too much for a single Kato engine pulling nine cars. Can’t wait for my DCC and consists! [:p]