HELP! Dullcote not working

I am haveing a problem with my dullcote. When I spray it on a model it apears like litle patches of “snow” or litle snow flakes that landed on the model. I am using it in an airbrush thined 50/50. If I am doing anything wrong please help. Bellow are some pictures, you can sort of see the “snow” on the top of the long hood of this UP SW1500. I adjusted the light so it is easyer to see.

Thanks in advanced for all you help.

Joe

I spend $4.29 per Dullcote spray can so that is what I would suggest you try next. Its so much easier to push the button and shake away as opposed to mix this and that, spray, then clean the airbrush after. compared to the general cleanup I think $4.29 is a better deal yet I STILL consider that expensive for that tiny can

What kind of thinner did you use? Clear coats are lacquer, and I think they can only be thinned with lacquer thinner. If you used enamel thinner or water, that could explain the “snow.”

I agree with Mass Man that the spray cans are a lot easier. Easy to use, easy to clean, and you get an excellent finish.[:D] Just use it in a very well ventilated area, because spray can lacquers are 88% VOC, which is how much of it turns into vapor and fumes.

I am not even in the ballpark on this subject, but I do recall reading that sometimes an incorrect setting, maybe air pressure, can result in the product drying before it even gets to the surface. So, what you have is like the spray cans of “snow” at Christmas effect.

Just thinking out loud here…

I got tired of that white patching that Dull-Cote is so famous for so i stopped using it. I use Matte-Finish now. It’s much cheaper, comes in a large can and can be found in most art supply centers.

Mass Man

I tried the can once and it worked great, but then I heard that the airbrush stuff would give you a much better coat so I tried that, but it isnt all the better so far[V]

Darth

I checked and I was using an enamal thiner, and on the back of the dullcote it says use LACQUER thinner, I was planning on going to the LHS on fri so I will get some lacquer thinner then.

selector

So incorerect air pressure? As in to high and the dullcote is comming out to fast and drying before it hits the surface? is that what you mean?

Thanks for all your help.

Joe

Here is something that I learned from someone else and it has worked well for me the few times that I tried it.

When not sure about the correct mixing for airbrush use just take your spray can of paint and spray into the airbrush bottle.

Just be careful and cover the bottle opening with a rag so you don’t get paint all over the place and use a respirator each time you paint.

Craig

mj5890

Forget what the others have suggested, I think Darth has put you on the right track. If you were using enamel thinner then you will have problems. The dullcoate hasn’t really been thinned, but instead is in suspension in the enalmel thinner. The two a chemically not compatible. Get a quart of lacquer thinner at your LHS (Local Hardware Store) in this case.

My recommendation is to avoid the spray cans. You have very little control over the application of the Dullcote. The spray pattern is to wide and the atomization is not as fine as you’ll get with an airbrush. You will sooner or latter run into a problem with the tip clogging or worse partially clogging and causing the spray to be even worse. Stick with the airbrush. my painting guides say that 50/50 with lacquer thinner is the right mixture. The other variables then are air pressure (I like around 20-25 psi depending on the application) and moisture. Clear coats can be affected by the moisture in the air. make sure you have a moisture trap installed on your air line. Along the same lines of what Darth said, Dullcote and water dont mix either and can cause problems.

Which Dullcoat are you using? Polly s, Scalecoat, what?

I personally use only Scalecoat. All of their finishes are top notch with narry a problem.

I tend to avoid spray cans like the plague. You never know how long that dull coat in a can has been sitting on a shelf. I had an experience early on in my modeling career (about 20 years ago) where the dull coat came out in flakes and destroyed my finish. I am sure they have come aways in 20 years…

Another thing is thinning. You need to thin the stuff.

David B

Humidity and temperature can cause this too. And the base color paint has to be completely dry.

Thanks for your sugestion, I will hopefully be able to get some tomarow, dose it mater what brand of lacquer thiner I get or can I use any lacquer thiner like 2 oz of tesotrs(recomended) vs 1 quart ACE hardwhare generic brand?

BTW Im using testors dullcote, relativley low humidity and temp in mid 50’s(in my basment), and the base paint is dry(factory paint).

Thanks for all your help!

Joe

I use testors dullcote to. Never had a problem with it. I use paint thinner from Lowes in mine. Done that for awhile now, and no problems. I to suggest not to use the spray dullcote. I am sure you will get it all worked out.

I use the quart can lacquer thinner from the local harware store. In my book, lacquer thinner is lacquer thinner. I use it with Testors brand Dullcote and have no problems like you’re experiencing. You can get the 2oz testors but you’ll end up buying a lot more for what is chemically the same stuff.

While the humidity maybe low in the basement, the physics of compressing the air will want to force the moisture in the air to condense, similar to why you see water coming out of the tailpipe of a car. This condensed water can form in the lines and then be blown through them and into the airbrush causing poor finishes, splattering or splotches.

Like David said, avoid the can, let the others who recommend them buy them.

Thise same comments apply for clear gloss finishes too.

Hello MJ, - Sounds like you’ve found the solution. Let us know of your results. As mentioned enamel and lacquer based solvents are incompatible with each other while in liquid form.

Guys,

I’ve used the Dullcote in the rattle can but eventually switched over to using flat or semi-gloss clears. However, I’d like to pose a small question/observation:

Though the intention may have been to be helpufl and positive, should we be “dissing” or ripping up on fellow modelers that prefer to use the rattle cans? We can point out the pros and cons in a way that won’t “slap” someone over the head and perhaps discourage them from making future posts that may be helpful.

Not trying to upset anyone or start a debate, but just pointing out that sometimes our posts may have unintended negative effects. It’s just like wen a few of my posts [D)] on one of the “DC vs. DCC” threads a year or so back, rattled a few modelers.

Peace and High Greens [;)]

Testors recommends this for their dull coat finishes.
http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1337
It seems to be just lacquer thinner. The stuff they now sell for their Testors, Model Master and Floquil lines is called an enamel thinner.(or reducer) Probably 2 different chemicals. The red label Testors thinner doesn’t smell anything like my can of lacquer thinner.

I know what the problem is…it’s a UP locomotive! [:D]

I kid I kid, I use the spray can dullcoat for all of my weathering and it works great plus less clean up and trouble!

That is an awesome idea! I never heard it before but it’s brilliant!

You get a new tool (airbrush) and then you forget about the old ones (spray cans). I have used airbrushes too but I prefer to stick with the can for DULLCOTE. The results are perfectly fine! The can does not sit on my shelf for 6 months to cause any clogging. I buy a can and it is well used until it is empty. i often end up buying three or four per sit down. The can method is the best. The best overall thing is cleaning up after. The can is just putting the cap on and back on a shelf for a day. The airbrush will need to be taken apart and cleaned thouroghly to avoid clogs that will give bad results the next paint job. You will need to use more Thinner to clean it etc etc. Then after you clean up the airbrush kit you will have to “clean up” LOL Airbrushes are great but in moderation for me. I use them to PAINT models or weather them not to Dullcote when there is an easier way. Why make a cookies from scratch when there is a package out there that lets you pop them on a tray, set it and forget it.

Here is the bottom line, the point

WHO IS GOING TO COME TO YOUR HOME SEE YOUR MODELS AND SAY “Wow that thing is dullcoted so perfectly over that weathered dirty engine” No one. It is like the glass in front of the picture, nobody notices that they only notice the picture!

Yet if the glass is dirty and smugged everyone will notice the glass more than the picture or if there is too much glare off the glass you can’t see the picture.

More importantly, your response failed to address the question the OP asked. He asked what may have caused his problem and possible solutions, not for alternatives like you and JW offered which moved no closer to a solving the problem.

Mass man, let’s some of this models with spray can dullcote finishes and we’ll see if the the “glass” is noticeable.

It hasn’t happened to me in a long time, but in 30+ years of modelling, every once in a while that will happen.

My impression has always been that it is an old can of Dullcote that is doing it.

For about 10 years now, every time I buy paint/thinner/spray can I write the month and year of purchase on the label with a Sharpie.

Helps me keep track of my “old” stock.