I was wondering if anyone on here has any knowledge of or experience with superelevating track. (elevating and slightly curving/turning the track). I would like to superelevate the turn/corner track sections on my layout because I have grandkids who come over and like to run the trains but sometimes they get a little carried away and run them too fast.
This way, if I have superelevated corner sections of track I don’t have to worry about them running the train right off of the corner due to excessive speed.
also, if anyone could reccomend what material/materials would be ideal for this type of project it would be greatly appreciated.
You have two threads asking the same question. You could delete the other one and save a bit of confusion and get all your answers in one place.
I have never done superelevation, but have thought about it and read some on it. Not sure it will keep trains from flying off if they are traveling at Mach 1. As I understand it, in modeling they are mostly for looks.
The threads I have seen start with one very thin shim (0.02?) under the outside end of the ties, then add another shim (usually 2 of the first thickness under the next section. The increase/decrease is usually very gradual. Sorry, I don’t remember the maximum recommended rise. What radius track are you thinking of laying out? Any I have heard of have been on broad curves, probably 28" or more. Not that it can’t be done on tighter curves, just you won’t get much elevation before you have to start back down.
If you go to the right hand column and find “Search the Community” type in “superelevation” and I think you will find some information. Also, with a little luck, someone that has tried it will chime in on this thread.
Glad to hear I’m not the only one with grandchildren that only know one speed. I put up a plexiglass safety fence, as my track is much too close to the edge of the layout.
I think it is generally agreed that superelevation on model trains is for appearance only and does not function the way it does on the prototype, at least not for your purpose. I think you’d find it would not resolve your problem. Even on the prototype superelevation is largely for passenger comfort, not to prevent derailments due to excessive speed although it probably does permit a slightly higher maximum speed. But plenty of real trains have derailed on super elevated curves.
Without knowing how large or involved your layout is, I wonder if it is possible to install a “visiting kids” switch that would introduce a significant resistor into the feed or feeds to the rails. Either that or put every lighted car you own on the layout!
I can also recall seeing an article in MR or RMC years ago where a guy with your problem modified a knob for his MRC power pack so that a protrusion would catch on an obstacle and it could not be turned further. Presumably he did this with a replacement knob that he installed just for the visits.
Again without knowing how large your layout is, there are also power packs that put out 9 volts max intended for the Z scale crowd.
It has been the general opinion of many here that super elevation of model railroad track is only for appearance sake, and has no impact on how well or how fast our models can negotiate curves.
What you need to find is a way to cut down on the maximum allowed speed of the trains so they can’t be operated at warp speed and derail.
A power resistor in one feeder wire from your throttle would be an easy way to slow them down. A resistor that can handle at least 10 Watts would be best; possibly in the range of 100-200 Ohms.
I am going to disagree only somewhat with the other learned gentlemen and say that superelevation WILL allow your kids to run trains at breakneck speed more safely. However, the amount you’d need would look absolutely ridiculous. We’d be talking about a scale 12-15" disparity in rail-head heights. Unfortunately, only highly determined and skilled modellers would even attempt such excessive superelevation and actually hope it would work…and that their fans wouldn’t notice.
Mind you, they’d have to have knocked back several wee drams of good single malt before attempting it, too. [:P]
The OP didn’t mention whether he ran DC or DCC. The solutions offered with a resistor would apply to DC, but be sure and get it rated at a pretty high wattage. Is that even possible? It’s goona be a big one.
Installing the coil from an old transformer in series with the postive lead from the main pack might give the option of “dialing down” the max output of the main pack. I’m not at all sure about the electrics of that, though.
If the OP is running DCC, the solution is simple. Use CV 5 to limit the max speed of any decoders on engines the kids will get ahold of.
Wow… “visiting kids” switch? power resistors ? How about being the adult in the room, and limiting train speed ! If they can’t listen, tell them they can “look but don’t touch”. I better stop right there, as any more might have me deleted.
I agree. When my grandkids were small, I ran the trains for them. When they got a little older, I let them run trains, but with close supervision. It doesn’t take them long to learn to be responsible when the consequences are not being allowed to participate.
As others have mentioned, superelevation isn’t going to keep superfast trains on the track. Even though the maximum permitted speed on my layout (and not on the curves) is only 45mph, I’ve superelevated most of my curves, and it’s very easy to do if your layout’s construction is open grid-type, with separate sub-roadbed.
If you use open grid or L-girder benchwork, superelevation is easy to add, including the vertical easements into and out of the curve.
I use 3/4" plywood as a sub-roadbed, but any similar-type material, or even spline roadbed should also work. Install the straight roadbed on either side of the curve by fastening the risers to the joists - leave the last riser beyond both ends of the curve unfastened. Install risers to the underside of the curved roadbed, but don’t fasten them to the benchwork just yet. If your curve is on a grade, as most of mine are, raise the roadbed through the curve to the proper height, then mark a pencil line on each riser which corresponds to the top of the benchwork to which it will eventually be fastened. If the track through the curve is to be level, adjust the risers accordingly, then make the lines. Next, choose the riser closest to the mid-point of the curve, raise it to the proper height, then push the bottom end of the riser towards the outside of the curve. Re-align the height line on the riser so that its inner end corresponds to