Got my Badger 150 and have tried it on a box just as a test - but the paint flow seems abysmally slow (also using canned Propel, just FYI). I’m using acrylic; thought it would easier for clean-up - but do I need to thin model acrylic to get better flow rates?
I have just gotten started in airbrushing and through posts on this forum and my experiences I have learned a few things. Yes you need to thin most acrylics. The thinned paint should be about the consistency of skim milk. Do yourself a favor and get a small compressor. Your painting experience will be much better since you can control your air pressure and that will have a significant effect on your work. Oh and be sure that you thoroughly clean your airbrush immediately after you have finished painting - a hard lesson I learned.
Joe
I just got my first airbrush a few weeks ago. The paint you’re using should tell you the mixture to thin it with 25% water. It’s right on the label.
I learned alot of things like cleaning your airbrush, etc… on some youtube videos. As well as asking alot of questions on the forum.
Without running the risk of sounding like the back end of a mule read the bottle their are mixing instructions for airbrush applications in short any paint that goes into the jar or cup of an airbrush MUST be mixed. no exceptions. You will now need to thoroughly clean your airbrush before the paint hardens in their like concrete. I would first start off with straight water in a clean bottle, if you see the spray pattern has a nice wide fan and it appears to spray ok, say a big thank you. I would still thoroughly clean it by disassembling it and cleaning all the parts.
If water doesn’t do the trick get yourself some 90% Isopropyl alcohol (for cleaning purposes only) and spray it through the airbrush if that doesn’t work you are going to have to dissemble it and soak all the parts until their clean.
I mentioned 90% for cleaning only as some like to use 70% Isopropyl alcohol as a reducer for acrylic pants rather then water, as a new user I wouldn’t recommend it. Lastly again not trying to sound condescending before you pick up the airbrush read the manual form cover to cover. Oh and get rid of that can and go to one of the big box home centers and get yourself a small nail gun compressor. It’s all the compressor you will ever need for airbrushing and a lot cheaper in the long run then those cans of air. Plus the compressor doesn’t run out of air in the middle of a job.
Sadly, when thinned, my whites are just so darn runny. But I’ll keep experimenting.
Thats all it takes is lots of practice. I use a scale to measure my paints but you can use a premeasured stick or ruler next to the bottle.
Check the needle size. Most airbrushes come set up for solvent paint with a fine needle. Use a medium needle for acrylic hobby paint.
A good idea as to using propel cans set it in a bowl of warm water when you use it as this will let you get an even pressure as well as utilizing all of the propelent. And I would recommend getting a compressor if you plan on doing alot of work as propel becomes expensive , and make sure you get a pressure regulator with a moisture trap. Also I have seen people use propane cannisters as portible compressors as you need to install an air fitting into the canister to fill it with air. And using a reducer on the cannister valve to get to the required hose size for your airbrush hose, and when filled with air you regulate the pressure with the knob on the propane cannister , just a few thoughts. Hope this helps.
Just a respectful suggestion…
As suggested, strongly consider purchasing an air compressor, but not one of the small, overpriced hobby units.
I purchased this unit a year or so ago and have been happy with it:
Decent price. It comes with fittings, blow gun, tire inflator, pressure gauge, and a staple gun. Being an oiless unit, it is a little noisy when it kicks on. But for most of my paint jobs, once the 1 gallon tank fills up to 120 psi, there is more than enough air that I can actually turn it off and finish the paint job.
I’ve had good results in using distilled water in thinning my acrylic mixes. Makes a postive difference. Even if you paint 25 HO locomotive shells in a year, at gallon of distilled water from your local drug store or supermarket will last you a long time.
Be patient and practice spraying your acrylic mixes on scrap models or plastics. Always flush out your airbrush after you finish using it. Remove the needle and aircap and wipe off with an alcohol soaked cloth. Good basic care will allow you hours of trouble free operation.
I’ve been airbrushing models for well over 2 decades and found it intimidating at first. It didn’t take long before it became fun for me. Only hassle for me now is squeezing in the time.
Here are a couple of buses I airbrushed a couple of years ago. They’re still not finished. The GMC transit bus body and wheels (yellow sections) were airbrushed with Badger ModelFlex acrylic. The seats were painted with a Polly Scale acrylic mix of greens to resemble Sea Foam Green :
[IMG]http://i267.photobu