I used a Dremel cut-off tool to cut a gap in my rail to isolate a Peco ElectroFrog. I am now attempting to fill the gap as recommended in other posts, and in a David Popp book, using CA and plastic. I can’t seem to get it all to bond. I am using thick CA, placing a drop in the gap, then inserting the plastic. What am I doing wrong?
I can’t comment on that approach.
I had a few (too big) gaps that I filled with JB Weld “PlasticWeld”, a clay-like epoxy (from HD). I don’t think I used it with a piece of styrene sheeting but in any event added it generously then let it harden a day and then filed and Dremel-ed it to shape of the adjoining rails. After painting the rails later, I would have to look closely to find where they are.
I’ll see if I can find an old thread on this, as folks have different approches that work.
The plastic should be a ‘tight fit’ in the gap. I have used ‘90 Second’ epoxy, and after a few minutes I use a fine tooth needle file to clean up the excess epoxy/styrene plastic. Your ‘thick’ CA should work the same. BTW - I get the ‘90 Second’ epoxy at Hobby Lobby(about a $1)
Jim
ZAP-A-GAP Medium CA+
Frank
The gap filler doesn’t have to bond to the rail. It just has to keep the ends from sliding together. If it fits into a slot in a tie and comes up between the bases of the rail ends it doesn’t need to reach the railhead.
If you lived in Clark County NV you could go to the spot west of I-15 where N. Pecos Road crosses the lead into a recently built industrial area. Just west of the crossing I found the prototype for those ugly red-orange insulated rail joiners Atlas used to sell. It’s in the closure rail between the main running rails, and prevents throwing the switch to the warehouse siding from activating the crossing signal. Moral - if you plan for gaps beforehand, you can install insulated joiners and leave the Dremel tool in its box.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - analog DC, MZL, LOTS of gaps)
I use a Dremel Thin Cut 1 1/2 inch cut off disc, not the normal cut off wheel, if I have to cut a gap which is really not often at all. Then I mix up 5 minute epoxy and toothpick some at the base of the track cut touching both rails and let set. Then some ballast (very little) to kill the shine of he epoxy. C55 track in my opinion is just to small to even bother putting a small piece of plastic and gluing it into the gap.
Plan ahead and install insulators at the frog ends of the turnout so you don’t find yourself making these cuts. Doug
The good thing is I am using a small test project to learn these lessons. I have a document where I am recording all of my lessons learned. I have already added, “Plan for turnouts–use insulated joiners.”
As was mentioned earlier, you want a snug fit. For my styrene modeling needs, I use the plain plastic “For Sale” signs from Walmart. I use the regular cutoff disks in my Dremel. There are a couple of points I’d like to make.
- ALWAYS use eye protection!! I had a disk shatter and a piece of the disk hit me in the lower neck. I now use a full face plastic shield over my goggles.
- I use the Dremel flex-shaft attachment. It allows you to get a lower angle so your cut is nearly vertical.
- I put a drop of regular CA on either side of the thin strip of plastic and wedge it into place. Once the CA sets up, I trim the plastic, making sure that it’s flush with the top and inner web of the rail. Run a fingernail over the joint, you shouldn’t catch your nail on it. If your nail snags on it, so will wheels.