HELP! Haywire MTH Swith!!!

Classic Toy Trains Forum
1

If this message is not in the right forum, I’m hoping the admin can move it for me.

I’m new to the forum, and I joined for the simple reason that I have some maintenance issues to discuss.

I became a toy train enthusiast a few years ago to regain a little of my childhood’s simplicity. But, I found that as today’s train sets became more sophisticated than my Marx Big Rail Work Train of old, they can also tend to create more stress than they relieve. I have an uncoupler track that did not work right from the package, a train that leaked a huge glob of lithium grease, slimed the entire track and slipped a loco tread (maybe I overfilled last season), AND…

Perhaps most frustrating of all, a switch that is giving me a headache. It worked fine for 2 years. Now, the MTH O-31 RH turnout is on the fritz. It does not want to switch to the turnout. It buzzes and the switch light vibrates indecisively. It acts like it is defaulting to straight, then the lights on the switch go out and it is dead unless I power down and then back up. This happens whether or not an engine is on the track, no matter which side of the track the power lockon is, no matter which side of the switch the light block is, and no matter where on the track I place the switch. My other 2 switches operate fine. I’m willing to open it up and tweak something. From the bottom of the switch, I am able to operate it manually with no significant effort.

Any help would greatly be appreciated.

2

To find out if the problem is in the switch motor you can switch it with another one that you know is good. If that is the problem, you will need a new switch, I think as I have never seen them sold as a separate item.

The wiring under the Realtrax switches is done with printed circuits. I have had some problems with Realtrax switches burning off traces on these boards. Take the switch off the layout, turn it upside down on your workbench and remove the philips head screws. Don’t remember the exact number, but about 10 I think. Lift off the plastic bottom and this will revile the interior and the printed circuit wiring. You will be able to se what is wrong if it is the PC as it will be pretty obvious. If that is the problem, you can either replace the switch or wire around the break in the circuit board. This can not be done inside the switch as there is no room. That is why they use a PC. Hope this helps.

3

Thanks Jefelectric. I’ll give it a try and let you know.

4

OK. I disassembled the switch. No signs of burnt circuits. I reassembled, and it seemed to fit together better. The motor was able to snap in more securely. Maybe that’s all it was. Thanks.