My Athearn SD40 is making a horrible grinding noise, at first the drive shaft come apart and i put it back together and it still doesnt work please help this is my favorite engine and im freaking out!!![:O][:(]
Not a lot of info here. Did this problem just come up? Does the unit still run, I mean move? Grinding usually means friction between parts. My first thought, since you said the drive shaft came off, is something else failed. A gear perhaps. Has the truck become loose? Gears slipping? First step is to dis-assemble the unit and take a close look at what’s happening. When we know what is causing the problem, we can suggest remedies.
Tilden
I still dont know i took the whole thing apart cleaned the gears because they were smuthered with grease they were’nt broken or cracked so i put it back together and its still grinding i dont know what im going to do! I may be the motor itself thats the only thing that it could be. God i wish i knew what was happening this is very deppressing![:(][V]
It depend on what kind of grinding. First take off the shell and run it. If it doesn’t make that nose, then it’s the body. Happens to my SW1500. You could try this: here’s the link: http://www.trains.com/TRC/CS/forums/786028/ShowPost.aspx
If that doesn’t work then I don’t know. (I’m not postive because I haven’t tryed it.) I’ll experement with my loco.
Take it off the track. Pull the drive shafts out of it. Power up just the motor. If it makes the noise, you know that’s the culprit. If it doesn’t, put one drive shaft back in and see if it makes the noise. If not, put the other shaft back in and try it. This way you can pin point whether it’s the motor or one of the trucks.
Does it still grind with the shafts disconnected? If so, then it is the motor. You can start with the simplest solution by lightly oiling the bearings. If that doesn’t do it, remove the motor and see if you can observe anything like a metal fragment stuck to the magnets or armature, or if the magnets aren’t seated properly. Athearn motors snap apart very easily, so you should be able to fix it without much difficulty. Just be careful not to launch the brush springs across the room.
It’s one of the old Blue Box motors, isn’t it?
Its a RTR unit and there are so many wires im afraid im going to screw something up, but i’ll check my motor and tell yall what happens.
Go your LHS and get some teflon grease. You said you cleaned all the grease off. The grease is there to lubricate the gears. with out the grease it will be noisy. Regrease it with teflon grease as it is safe for plastics. Without lubricants like grease things tend to grind.
I believe those have a Mabuchi can motor which is not really servicable.
Its defenitly the motor i took the drive shafts off and its still making the grinding sound. I just dont know where to go from here?[V]
What does the motor look like? If it’s a can motor, you may want to cantact Athearn if it’s still under warranty. If not, you can buy the part.
I wonder if you burned a brush up? Do you have access to an air hose to try and blow the motor out? Be careful if you try this. Those parts can fly a LONG ways.
That’s what I was wondering too, but if it’s one of those can motors the brushes can’t be replaced. Those bronze brush arms make a terrible noise on the commutator.
SD60, does the motor look like this? These can be serviced.
It does but the SD40 has that PC board on it and the flywheel and i dont think you can get the pc board off unless you rip it off! I dont know its wierd i have never had an athearn that sounded so bad. If it can be serviced i will have to send it to athearn because the hobby shops in Memphis suck they dont know anything about model trains!
I found a photo of the motor with the circuit board, and the board is just riveted to the top contact. Both contacts pry off from the brush end of the motor, then the springs and brushes will come out. If you don’t feel comfortable trying, don’t, but these motors are easily serviced. Does the armature turn freely, or is something rubbing?
Steamfreak-Is that a hex drive?
Rivets! Wow! That was smart![D)]
No, they’re cardan shafts. Do they use hex in their Genesis line?
Re-seating the top brush spring must be a lot of fun with that board attached. Doh.
This is the unit in question i took it yesturday when it worked also im just going to use an old motor to fix the SD40. The Motor is from a BB GP50 and im going to make the 50 a dummy until i can get the 40’s motor fixed. Thanks for the help guys!
Let’s put that myth to bed shall we?..
Heres the scoop.
| HO RTR SD40, BN #6323 |
|---|
Key Features - Fully assembled and ready to operate - Based on Rail Power tooling with many upgrades - Factory installed metal grab irons - Factory installed Celcon handrails - Detailed fuel tank with correct capacity - See-through fans - Available with and without dynamic brakes as appropriate (undecorated model includes both) - Equipped with Quick Plug DCC technology - Next-generation drive mechanism with hex drive lines - Directional headlights - Machined RP25 profile metal wheels - McHenry semi-scale operating knuckle couplers installed |
Apparently they use a combination: hex on the flywheel end, and cardan on the gear tower.