Ok, I’m really frustrated now. I was running my train around my layout with my P2K SD45. It hit a bad spot of track and started shorting out, or like stopping and going. (I think it was dirt because before it would work on that spot) So I got and get some sand paper and stand down the track. I ran it around and it starts shorting out again. But this time when it went over that section of track it made a loud high pitched buzzing noise. So I move it over and put it in the good section of track and it starts making the buzzing noise again. Is this normal? Before it ran over that bad section it was really quite. It also doesn’t make as loud of a noise in reverse. Can anyone help?
Are you running DC or DCC? Also, after you sanded the track, did you wipe/clean off the track before putting your locomotive back on it again?
In the future, I would encourage you to refrain from sanding track to clean it. (That includes using a Brite Boy.) The scratches you create with the sand paper will only encourage it to get dirty more quickly. The smoother the surface, the harder chance debris has to cling to it. Use a chemical cleaning method like 91% alcohol. There are other methods that work, as well.
Well I run DC. Also I did not wipe it down with any thing, but the track looked clean. I’ll take your advice and in the future do what you told me. But right now I’m wondering if there is any thing worng that is serious and, if it can be fixed.
A couple of possibilities. Does this engine have a DCC decoder in it? Have you lubricated it? How long has it been running before developing this noise? Did some sandpaper grit get into the gears? What brand and model of power pack are you using? All of these things can have an impact on the cause of the noise.
Ok, I’m not sure if it has a DCC decoder in it. But I’m pretty sure it doesn’t. No I have not lubricated it because I didn’t think it needed it. It’s almost brand new. It hasn’t been running that long, maybe 12 hours but the time wasn’t consistent. Maybe 30-45 minutes every other day. I don’t think any sand paper grit got into the locomotive. I’m using an Old Tyco Power pack. I would get a new and better power pack, but I don’t want to spend the money on a new one if I’m going to switch over to DCC. I think I’ll take off the body tonight and see where the noise is coming from.
My first suspicion would be the Tyco power pack. They were meant to run cheap Christmas train sets and had very poor voltage regulation and no filtering to smooth out the waveform.
What they basically do is run the 60 Hertz AC voltage through a bridge rectifier, which turns it into a 120 Hertz AC waveform. This causes the motor to turn on and off 120 times per second, and make a buzzing noise, especially at the slower speeds. This will also cause the motor to overheat and is not good for it.
Higher quality power packs use filter capacitors and transistors to smooth out the AC pulses into a ripple-free DC voltage. Newer can motors such as those used in P2K models are especially susceptible to buzzing and overheating when run from a poorly designed power pack.
Thta is probably the problum. Is there any way to fix that buzzing noise? Also, I’m trying to take off the shell for the locomotive, but the fuel tank cover won’t come off. Do you know how to get that off too.
I don’t have one of those models and am not sure about opening it up, but I don’t think you need to take off the fuel tank cover. If it’s like other P2K models there are screws at the sides of the trucks that are very hard to find. There might be 4 screws, one under each center wheel if it’s a 6 wheel truck, or between the wheels if it’s 4 wheel. You may also need to remove the couplers.
WC, is this the only engine you have? If not run another one and see what happens.
Buzzing sound like the motor is over loading but I will not cout out the power supply never having that problem.
First thing I would look at is if the truck sucked up a rail spike into a truck. They can be hard to see I will add. Sure sounds like you picked up something.
As far as pulling the shell, I as well have never had one but my other PK’s unless the there is a coupler going through the front pilot. All you should need to do is spread the shell my the tank and shake it a little. Only time that has not worked was on a E-6 B unit. It was not pretty but I did get it off.
Wc, I had some old tyco packs and i was running the layout, the control blew out so i couldnt stop the loco lol. There peices of junk you really should buy a newer pack like an MRC, they have some quality cheap ones for like $50
It might be wise for you to just go ahead and plunk down the $$$ for a new MRC power pack. You can pick up a new MRC Rail Command 1370 off eBay for ~$20.
Even if you do switch to DCC, it won’t be a loss. You can still use your MRC power pack to power your accessories, like your lights and turnouts. It would be worth the investment. As Chuck (cacole) indicated, your locomotives will run a lot smoother.
Tom
P.S. The screws (2) for the shell on my P2K GP38-2 are hidden by the front and back trucks. Try rotating the trucks to the side slightly. After you remove those and the couplers, the shell should come right off. You still may need to gently pry the sides apart to get it off.
I had a friend whose GP30’s howled lilke Banshees until a gear was replaced. You can use either the stock LL replacement gear sold in packets or use an Athearn Gear which literally “drops right into place” as a replacement. The cracks are hard to see and pick up but they can cause an engine to stall and overload like it would were it shorting out.
I have also replaced one or two using Athearn gears…
Ok, here’s my plan. I’ll go to my LHS sometime on the weekend a pick up a MRC controller. See if that works, if it doesn’t I’ll take off the shell and see where the noise if coming from. Then, depending on where the noise is coming from, it might be a cracked gear, or something stuck in the motor.
A suggestion for finding where the noise is coming from. A trick some of my mechanic friends taught me in trying to find noises in engines. Take a screw driver and place the end opposite the handle on the engine or whatever (be sure you do NOT touch anything electrical) and then put your ear to the handle. If it is generating a strange noise it will transmit up the screwdriver,handle and to your ear. This way BEFORE you disassemble something you will know if it is the problem or not.Hope this helps. PS deep six the Tyco .
I Agree With Trevor. [#ditto] I have a ATSF E-8 That ran around the track all of a sudden i herd bizzzzzz errrrrrr took off the shell sure enoughf broken axle gear ,i Called Bachman When they were still around ,And they sent me out a new gear no charge, That was nice ,But like others say don’t sand your track ,and as soon as you can get a better Power Pack The voltage out of the cheap one’s can create Damage as well