I picked up a new in the box BLI RSD-15 with Quantum sound. The sound is supposed to operate on DC layouts - as well as DCC. I have a DC layout, and can get NO sound out of the loco, although the motor runs just fine.
The loco came with a “Magnetic Wand”, which is used to adjust sound and its parameters. The instructions that came with the loco to use this feature are vague - at least to me. Anyway, my thought is that maybe the sound is “turned off” and the magnetic wand could turn it on again. I’ve played with the thing, but have had no results.
Obviously there are two explanations here. Either the loco is defective, or I am doing something wrong - probably with the magnetic wand. Is there anyone out there that can give me BASIC instruction as to how to use the thing? Trust me, you will not insult my intelligence - for I know not what I do…
Mobilman44, all I have is steam engines by BLI. My class J would not work with the wand either. If you read the manual closely you may find a reset instruction using your DC power pack only. If not I will look for mine and post it.
On my other BLI there is a jumper you pull of the board that will re set the decoder as well. It looks like a vevy small bridge, which it is. With out looking and going my memory you pull the bridge and apply DC power and the engine will say “prorgam”, reinstall the bridge and you should be good to go.
I’ve tried the magnetic wand on a couple of decoders with no luck. Use a more powerful magnet. If you don’t have one available, go to any housewares store and purchase one of those refrigerator magnet dodads that has an actual magnet in the base and use it. Pass the magnet lengthwise over to top of the entire locomotive unless you know for sure exactly where the reed switch is.
As Ken suggested, too, read the documentation and see if there’s a manual reset jumper somewhere on the decoder.
Thanks for the reply. I have read the portion of documentation that applies to my situation, and it could be a whole lot better written. Like a lot of the DCC and other electronic stuff these days, the documentation assumes that the reader already knows a lot about the item.
I’ve been on the fence about going over to DCC, and its frustrations like this that tell me to stay and be happy with my two DC MRC Controlmaster 20s!
I had a problem with that ‘wand’ myself on one of the BLI ‘sound’ cattle-cars. Could hardly hear the little critters, so tried the very confusing directions about using the wand. Nothing. So I thought “Oh well” and continued running the car. About two minutes later, I heard from the other end of the layout–“MOOOOO–!” Swear to golly a herd of cattle had wandered into the garage! Loudest thing I ever heard. Now I can’t get the ‘wand’ to lower the volume, and every time I run a stock train, the garage shakes!
Those little gadgets are REALLY tricky, and the instructions don’t help one darned bit.
It would be a mistake for you to judge DCC by some gimmicky wand so you can use a DCC feature on DC.
If you had a DCC system, you would simply make adjustment through your DCC controller, you wouldn’t be using some silly wand to do it.
DCC is one of the best things that happened in the hobby in my experience, its as easy or as hard as you want it to be. Your making hard on yourself MHO.
Trust me, a problem with the magnetic wand will not sway me to go DCC or not. I certainly agree that DCC is THE major innovation in the hobby in many years. While there are difficulties with getting DCC to work properly in all circumstances, there is more so a problem with the potential user (ME), in that electronics is not my forte. And being 64, I am concerned that about spending my “final” years in the hobby fighting problems.
All that being said, I am fairly certain at this point that I will get DCC - probably a Digitrax Super Chief with 10 or 20 amps - and plug it into the new layout. And I’ll only buy a few decoders at first, and get them working before I attack all 50 or so locos. Of course if its more trouble (for me) than I feel its worth, well its gonna be a wonderful Ebay sale!!!
Mobilman44, more buttons you can push, the more problems you will have! One of the many reasons I did not go with Digitrax or other DCC systems. While at my LHS / Club I have watched way to many people scratch there head wondering why there engines won’t move? Heck, even the owner of K-10 model trains gets lost when it comes to the Super Chief set up. I will add his bench still has 2 mains running DC.
If you want to try DCC here is how I did it. Guessing you have more than one main line like myself and blocked. I got a Bachmann E-Z command from T-Stage here at the site. I went DCC on the B line. New it cost a whole $100.00. It ran 3 DCC BLI’s with sound on the B line. 4 was more than it could handle. Next I bought a MRC power station 8 booster, 8 amps for $120.00. I then went completely DCC and added the C line, another 50 feet of rails. Total rail is around 350 feet, never ran out of power with 8 DCC engines. Super Chief with 10 amp booster is around $500.00. My total is $220.00? MRC power booster will work with a Digitrax system as well, main reason I bought it.
Kicker, I going to make the A line DC again. DCC engines just have way to many problems like you just had! I am not talking cheap DCC engines,I am talking about PCM and BLI! Nothing like sending in a $600.00 engine in for repairs to make you re think DCC.[xx(]
I know 90% of the people here will tell you different and maybe I just have bad luck. But regardless of luck, I can fix a DC engine.
No, I’m not in G scale - I’m HO. Like a lot of guys, I tend to go overboard when it comes to stuff. I quoted 10 or 20 amps only because that is the most powerful I have seen offered for sale. When it comes time to buy, I will do some serious evaluation of my needs.
Right now I have two 5 amp MRC "20"s running the layout, and they are plenty of power. I tend to run two ABBA (all units powered) consists at the same time, and occasionally I just let them run while switching with another loco or two tied together. So that would be a max of 10 powered units. Of course I may get into powering turnouts and other stuff, so my needs might be more than 5 amps. Believe me, I will get some sound evaluation before I buy.
Oh, regarding my wand problem, I have contacted BLI on their website and they are “in process” of getting back to me. It appears that my new in the box RSD-15 w/Quantum sound is defective… That is soooo frustrating!!!
First, I am happy to read of your question and your frustration here…it is a good sign that you can express yourself and that you can get some comfort, assurances, and relief from buds here. [:)]
Secondly, a lot of us have been in our shoes…it isn’t a great realization to find you have to send a new engine back. But, all the manufacturers have to deal with this type of issue, and they all do a good job, BLI being no exception. I have sent two engines back to them, and I got them back as much as 8 weeks later in perfect working order. Some guys have to return them yet again!
I think you will be a happy camper before very long. But you may have to ship it back. Too bad you couldn’t remove the shell, find the little black tower with the staple seemingly embedded in the top, and do the hard reset if necessary. Also, you’d find the device to reduce the volume. If that doesn’t work, then it would be a matter of packaging it up and dispatching it to BLI.
Here’s the BEST trick for using the 'magic wand" - take the shell off so you can actually SEE the reed switch it’s trying to operate and maybe you can actually get it aligned right. If the reed switch is a glass type you can actually see the contacts close if the amgnet is aligned correctly… I know it kind of defeats the purpose of the wand to actually take the shell off, but at least you will know for sure it is working.