Hi
I need help about Hp ink and decals paper.
After print the black ink get craked. the paper is testor decals paper, the ink Hp.
does somebody know why and how to fix the issue.
thanks in advance
Andre.
Sorry, but this has nothing to do with MODEL RAILROADING![#offtopic][#offtopic][#offtopic]
Well, it wouldn’t be off-topic if he’s making decals for his trains or layout, would it?
First, are you sure you have inkjet paper for an inkjet printer, or laser paper for a laser printer? Both varieties of paper are available.
When you say the black images are cracked, are you referring to the image as printed on the decal, or the final product after you’ve transferred it to your model? Does the image look cracked before you treat the decal (cover coat) or after?
I’ve seen this same sort of thing, by the way, even with the right paper for my printer. Generally, the decal will look better in place on the model than it does on the paper. Of course, most of the decals I make are for structures, and I want them to look weathered.
One thing to try would be to adjust your printer settings (probably in the dialog box that comes up before you print) and make it “draft” quality instead of “final” quality. I think that will lighten up the image, and not put so much ink on the page.
I’ve used HP ink and Testors paper with no problem. All I can think is that your print settings are not quite right. The testors package tells what the settings should be. I suggest checking them.
What do you think he/she is using decal paper for? Paper airplanes or something, lololol.[#wstupid]
Thanks guy!!
I will try again…I think my plane will look fine with the new decals [:D].
I’m just kidding…is for my trains…
Andre.
I too would suspect the print density is too heavy (too much ink), and I’ve experienced this in other inkjet situations. Another possibility, although less likely, would be if the decal paper has contaminants (i.e., fingerprints,etc.)
When preparing the image to print, I generally set a tint of 80% or 85% in graphics software rather than 100%. (Comparable to using a grey color, I would think, if your software doesn’t allow this.) The advantage over using a “draft” setting on the printer is that on some printers at least, the draft setting also reduces the dots-per-inch resolution.
Good luck. Hope this is helpful.
Sorry andregg1! I never knew you were printing out decals! Good luck with your decals!
Just a thought… Andre, are you sure that the testors paper you are using is for inkjet and not the laser paper?
Make sure you’re using the ‘sealer’ for the decal paper as well. I made that mistake on my first few tries and the ink just didn’t stick.
I forget the actual name of the product…
If you are using the right ink and the right paper. Experiment with the copy density. With my Epson I have to go two clicks darker. But as said before you may be to dark already. Give the print out 24 hrs. to dry. Then fix with Krylon clear acrylic. First coat veery light then one or two more coats.Trim the decal closely then Do not immerse in water just lay the paper on a puddle of water. I use a coffee can lid. Wait just a few seconds . When you see the paper is wet remove from the water and let it sit on your work surface until its soaked thru then apply. Remember decals stick best to a glossy surface. Use micro-sol as a wash on the model then float the decal onto the surface and position using a watercolor brush. Dry the brush on a paper towell and soak out excess moisture.You may want to brush micro-sol over the decal to seat it better, Then when in position use slightly damp paper towel to seat the decal. After 24 hrs seal with dullcote or glosscote for desired finish.