Ok folks, need some adivce. I apllied a good sized decal to front nose and rear end of a U-33. I put them on wet, then gave wiping in with Micro Set. I let them dr ove rnight but to my serious bummin’ set of mind, they didnt set very well. had some godo psaces fo air underneath. I gently pushed on the decal with y finger and they pushed and “look” fine now, but i know they are not.
So, can I re-apply a settng solution? Which one should I use? I have both, should I also use any water?
The above advice is absolytely the solution you need. Don;t attempte to squeeze the air out let the solution shrink it out. It may take more than one try to do it but it will.
I usually apply Micro Set under the decal before applying it, then Micro Sol over after it’s in place. As others have suggested, using a pin or a sharp blade to cut bubbles and then applying additional Micro Sol is sometimes necessary. For really stubborn decals, try some Walthers Solv-a-set. It’s like Micro Sol but stronger. Just be careful because it can melt the decals if you use too much.
Sometimes the silvery background on the clear parts of the decal just won’t go away no matter what you do. In that case sometimes it helps to apply a little thinned clear paint and let it creep underneath. It should fill in the space between the decal and the model and get rid of the silvering.
I use micro sol under the decal as well but usually the “haze” under the decal can be prevented by sraying the area to be decaled with gloss. Matte finishes trap air.
I use MicroSet first, before the decal is in place. When I remove the decal from water, I place it on a paper towel to absorb the extra water. I then slide the decal from the decal paper and into place on the model. Then I dab the area with the paper towel to remove excess water. Then I apply Micro Sol.
Then, as others have suggested, if there are bubbles under the decals I use a pin to *** a small hole, then apply more Micro Sol.
To keep track of which solution to use first, I’ve written a number 1 on the top of the Micro Set cap, and a number 2 on the top of the Micro Sol cap. I did that after reading the side of the bottles each and every time I used them. Seems I either don’t catch on too quickly or I don’t remember very well… one of the two! [:o)]
Speaking of which… the side of the Micro Set/Sol bottles does say to use Set first, right?
Erik, others. Thanks everyone for kickin in the info and extra tips. I ended up reaplying the Micro Sol and let it sit over night. All good to go. There is a little distortion but you have to be right on it, and in the right light to see it. I am can hang with that. Its a big wide saftey cheveron decal and it hide it well. Hopeing to have pictures for it by this weekend.
one other trick i’ve learned over the years, …don’t try and apply a large decal all at one time especially a long continuous stripe … chances are, it will tear and fold itself in half before you get it on straight…it may be better to cut it into two or three pieces and apply it in shorter sections one at a time…I’ve never needed micro sol before, a solution of water and 50% alcohol mixed 50 /50 works just as well…chuck
I use Solvoset for all decals. It beats having to buy 3 or 4 different typs for different typs of decals. I start out cutting it with water for " thin film " decals. If it wont settle down increase the strenghth. Use full strenghth for the thicker decals, Champ etc. For really stubborn ones you can use alcohol, but BE CAREFUL…