Hi, I am about to go & buy track next week but what do I use ?
Track will be indoors & laid on track underlay-do I buy steel or brass ?
Could someone please explain a few differences please-Scale will be HO.
As a novice I want to buy the right track first time.[:)]
Nickel-silver is what you are looking for–it’s the stuff that looks like steel. Unless your local hobby shop stocks very, very old stuff, they won’t have brass–but you don’t want that anyhow, so that’s okay.
For an explanation to Jetrock’s answer, the newer nickel-silver rail produces an oxide but it is a decent conductor of electricity. Not so for the brass oxide.
First, do not be afraid to make mistakes! If you do not “screw” something up once in a while, you are NOT progressing. Any thing you do now will probably in the dumpster within a year. As your skills improve, you will find that you want to redo many areas of your layout to improve them.
As for track, assuming you are talking about a permanent installation rather then a loop around the XMas tree, look for Atlas sectional track. It is not the Cadilac of track, but it will get the job done at a reasonable cost and is widily available.
Have fun
Theres also different sizes or codes, which is the height of the rail. Code 100 is the most popular but 83 and 75 are becomeing more avaliable.
Have a good look at all the brands if you can, some look more realistic than others (ties etc) Turnouts are also critical I bought cheap model power turnouts (used) when I first started, boy bad idea!!
I now have Peco code 100 turnouts much better, i;e no derailments!!
Ken.
I would highly recommend Atlas nickel silver track products for a begineer! I use code 83. but if the size doesnt matter code 100 is very easy to find and you sould be able to get all the track,switches,and other components very cheap.
Hi, Thankyou -as you can see I have had advise from all over the world & it is much appreciated.I can now say I am on the right track.I was a little weary of advise from local hobby shop as I thought they may be trying to sell old stock which was hard to sell,now I know where to get good advice,also going to join a local model train club.Thanks again,good luck to you all.Regards Tracksidetony (downunder)Australia.
If i were you, i’d use nickel silver as stated above…then there’s the code as 100, 83, and 55…a lot of modelers find that using code 100 for main line and 83 or 55 for sidings and yards works well…the code of rail means the height of the rail…my layout is all code 100 because i want it to last a long time…I also use cork roadbed on 2 1/4" x 3/4" plywood subroadbed but a lot of modelers are using the blue or pink foam as a sub roadbed…try to use “Flex track”…sectional track has a lot of limitations (you need a lot of it and the radii is always set)…flex track can be fudged into oddball radii…a lot more versitile…be sure if you are going to use turnouts, that it’s in the same code as the track…atlas, pecos, shinohara, and walthers (which is a code 83 version of shinohara code 100 turnouts) and micro engineering turnouts are all good… some better than others…Chuck
I used Atlas Flex track on Woodland Scenic Foam Bed glued together with cheap latex Caulk. It was the easiest and best I ever did. If you have old wheels code 100 may be better. I used Walter’s turnouts(Looked better) and Walther’s bridge track on viaducs and trestles.
I use Code 100 rail. No derailments yet!
You want to stay away from brass. Bad track. Steel isn’t much better because it rusts.
Back in 2003 or 2004 MR ran an article on buying sectional track. I’ll see if i can find it for you.
October 2003 issue-HO track buyers guide. Check it out at http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/004/497pohbq.asp
you may have to scroll down
if your doing old track i would use brass, but i use nickel-silver and im very happy with it
I’ve decided on Atlas nickle silver code 83 for my new layout. If you don’t want to spend the extra 15% to 20% for code 83, the code 100 still looks good if you paint it with some brownish camoflauge spray paint (after you solder your jounts) Krylon and Rustoleum
both have some pretty good colors and their pretty cheap.
loathar
I have been to our local train show & found a great club & many members have over 25 years in trains so I’mon my way.Thanks to all the above for your advise.Trackside