The problem is how to hide the cracks in this building i am kitbashing
I had to cut the front into quarters to get the right window arrangement
I have a flat metal file and some putty and thats about it
any tips or suggestions are welcome
The way I would do it is with sanding. It would be very helpfult to have a jig to keep your sanding square. But you should be able to get those sections pretty tight.
Space moue has it. take a piece of 2x2 or 1x2 with some 120 grit paper. No fingers please just a flat surface. The next step is a TRUE 90 deg jig. You can make one out of wood OR you can use a speed square. Your sanding must be perfect so that all edges are 90 degs to each other then you will need very little putty.
It’s true, you’re going to have to sand things very well to insure a good fit, but there may be some other things that can be done to help.
There is a method of gluing that I learned about a long time ago when I was into model cars. It’s called the “cushion” method. Basically, you need to use a glue that melts the plactic to form it’s bond, like testors plastic glue does. You put a small (a little goes a long way since you’ll be doubling it) bead of the glue on each side of the pieces to be bonded, then wait. Maybe about 5 minutes later you push the pieces together. What this does is it gives the glue a chance to soften up the plastic so that when you push them together the seam virtually disappears. There isn’t an exact science to it, so try it on some scrap plastic a couple times first to get the hang of it. Sometimes you’ll get some glue that bulges out from the joint. Wait a few more minutes and you can usually get most of that off by scooping it off with a hobby knife.
Another thought (if you’re not modeling a specific building) is that many older buildings have decorative trim, signs, and awnings that could hide the joints. Just add a strip of decorative styrene across the joint or maybe an awning and you’re in business. Note the pics below for reference.
Click on these pics to enlarge them!
Notice on this one the yellow building in the middle of the row (or even the green one closet to you). Notice the verticle decorative concrete colunms. Give you any ideas?
Just some thoughts
If after all the sanding and careful fitting the seam is just too obvious, You could lay a styrene strip vertically to simulate a brick coarse. There is evergreen brick or you can scribe the lines yourself. The horizontal should be no problem, place styrene strip or strips to replicate a cornice molding. The cornice moldings were bluestone sandstone or castings. This same effect can be used for the parting line to the lower wood window framework. You see these on most DPM and Cornerstone anyway.
Looks like the doorway is going to need some TLC also plus added parts.
Thanks everyone for the tips !
I am modeling a specific building so the use of trim strips is out but the glue trick
may help alot.
I really prefer working with wood because it’s so easy to sand and
I don’t have alot of luck scribing plastic with a brick facing
It seems to never break cleanly but i guess that’s why they make putty
Thanks Again [bow]
[#ditto]
It may be too late. By the time you sand the cuts square, you may have taken off enough to change the spacing of the corbels at the top of the wall. You might have to true up one wall side and then start over with a second. Use the brick pattern as a sanding guide. Mark or scribe a line that you will sand to. Check you progress very frequently.
Rather that a brick pilaster running up the center of the front, which wouldn’t make sense structurally, I would put a vertical sign up the center over the crack advertising the building. Maybe one that projects out from the front of the building.
Unfortunately that may not capture the “feel” of the prototype since the prototype is more a flat brick “wall” effect of the several buildings.
Another sanding toolis to take a 1x2 and rubber cement a strip of 100 or 200 grit wet/dry sandpaper to it, then get a square piece of particle board with one edge cut vertically square. Clamp or screw the 1x2 to the edge of the particle board so you have a flat surface with a square sanding surface on one side. As long as the wall section has a flat back, you can sand the edges very square.
Dave H.
It’s never to late Dave
I still have 2 sides and the back to do
Sanding plastic is sooooooooooooooooo slow
I’m thinking of using my bench grinder
[:P]
Naw! Just crank up the belt sander with some 60 grit and your slow sanding problems will be over!