Help wiring first TMCC layout

Classic Toy Trains Forum
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Here is where I truly am lacking in knowledge I have never done anything other than 2 wires to the track and acc. power to my turnouts and ran in conventional mode. My new layout will be totally command control. First let me give you a breakdown of what I will have also I only intend on running Lionel ,Atlas and K-Line motive power with TMCC

2 levels with 2 mainline loops on each level and a yard on each level.

Level 1(freight)
Outside loop- 49 feet of track, 2 turnouts
Inside loop- 99 feet of track, 9 turnouts, 13 un-couplers and eventually an array of lionel trackside operating accessories.

Level 2(passenger)
Outside loop- 57 feet of track, 2 turnouts
Inside loop- 102 feet of track, 7 turnouts, 13 un-couplers and 14 to 20 lighted passenger cars.

Power- I plan to use 4 180watt powerhouse power supply 1 for each loop and 1 BW80 (for the turnout switches I hope)

Some of the questions I have (and I’m sure there will be many more as I get deeper into this project) are.

  1. Do I start my buss wires at the TMCC Direct Lockon and then make my various connections between my tack and the buss?
  2. What distance between drops to the buss wire.
  3. Do I need blocks with total TMCC operation
  4. What is the best controller for my turnout switches
    I really need help in this area guys so Thanks in advance-papa

Building the New York Pennsy & Ohio R.R. (Texas Division)
One paycheck at a time!

2

Since no one has answered, I will try. Much more knowledable people will probably reply later.

  1. I have no idea.

  2. I don’t believe it is as much about distance, as track joints. I would put a drop about

every 4th or 5th track joint. Some people may say that is a little close, but why not?

  1. There is not 3.

  2. Unless you need to turn off some lights or accessories, there is no need to create blocks.

In tmcc mode the engines need to be addressed to make them move, and each engines

speed can be controlled individually. If you want to put lighted cars on sidings, though

you might want to use a mechanical device to shut the lights off.

  1. Right now, I would say the Lionel SC-2 would be a good choice. I currently am using a

SC-1 to control 4 Lionel switches, which works great for me. Either way, you can

throw the switch using the the cab-1, which would give you full remote control.

3

You don’t need “blocks” with TMCC, but you do want to break down the track into “Power Districts”. Figure out how much power you want to pull from a given district and set up the “bricks” accordingly. The command signal is carried as a radio wave so drops are not an issue as far as command control is concerned. They are a concern for making sure you have adequate power to a given block/district. SC-2’s work well for controlling switches. I’ve had very good luck powering the SC-2’s from a seperate dedicated power source, not from the wall warts and not from track power.

The only issue you may run into is the two level track. Make sure you have a good earth ground for the Command Base and a secondary forced ground plane for the upper level of track. The TMCC signal could be viewed as a sausage casing field around your track. It project under the track as well as above it. When elevated tracks cross, the signals can get messed up. Placing a piece of wire by or under the upper level and running that back to earth ground will force a secondary ground plane and minimize interference between the two levels.

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