I would like to use a pin wash to accent the details on an HO scale locomotive and would like to know what techniques you guys use. I saw a few videos on you tube of modelers pin washing aircraft and seemed interesting. They were spraying the model with gloss or satin clear coat, then applying a wash with a fine point brush to the lines and crevices. The paint mix flows nicely in a capillary action giving good looking results. My question of this procedure is that I like to leave my models with a flat finish. By adding a coat of clear, then adding a wash, and finishing with a flat…is this going to be too much clear coat where details will become less sharp, and small parts having a heavily finished look? Thanks in advance for any advice on this technique.
Byran
For many years modelers have been using a similar procedure when applying water slip decals. A coat of clear coat gloss, the decal, a coat of flat clearcoat.
Never having heard of a pin wash, all I can suggest is take a low value body shell (boxcar maybe) and try it. Always try new methods on low value peices.
Dave
Bryan,
I think your concerns are valid. Too much paint is a bad thing. I think this would explain why there are “model” paints. As opposed to dipping your model in paint from the hardware store.
I am afraid that these are the dark days for model paints. Our search for perfection in paint is apparently contaminating the entire world with noxious fumes. And so we must, for the good of all, not pursue this course.
Ed
I’ve not heard that term, but most modellers apply a gloss or semi-gloss finish before adding decals, then a coat of semi-gloss or matte to represent the desired finish. Then weathering is added and usually sealed with another coat of clear matte.
I apply the decals over a gloss finish, either that of the paint or, if matte paint is used, a clear gloss overspray. After the decals have been applied, I then add another coat of clear gloss, as this seems to better unify the decal with its gloss background. After that, it’s sprayed with whatever clear finish to which I wish to apply the weathering - gloss or semi-gloss for something which represents a fairly new item and which will receive only minimal weathering, or a very low-sheen semi-gloss or matte finish which will be more heavily weathered. After the weathering has been applied, I don’t coat it with any clear finished, as it makes the weathering too uniform for my tastes.
If you’re using an airbush for the paint and clear coats (and possibly the weathering, too) there’s no need to worry about obscuring the details as each coat will be very thin. That’s why a bottle of Dullcote applied with a brush won’t cover anywhere near as much as the same amount applied with an airbrush.
For washes, India ink thinned with alcohol (70% or less) or water-based acrylics, well-thinned with distilled water and with a drop of dish detergent added (to decrease the surface tension and allow it to flow better) work well.
Start with well-thinned solutions, as you can always apply additional coats, or simply add more paint or ink if your initial attempts are not noticeable enough. I prefer to build-up such weathering with successive applications - it’s a good way to avoid going too far…and your first few attempts will likely show you the definition of “too far”. [swg]
Wayne