I’ve been having a real hard time getting a Peco Turnout/Switch combination to work. I’m using an Atlas sliding switch (made for turnouts) with it. When I wire up the switch machine and test it, it seems to work beautifully.
So, first I used the extension on the switch machine, put it through a hole in my 1/2" plywood and foam roadbed, into the track and mounted the switch machine under the plywood. After an hour of trying to adjust position, I can’t get it to move the switch.
SO, I pulled up the switch and attached the switch machine directly to the bottom of the switch without the extension, thinking this would work and I’d cut a larger hole in the plywood to keep the switch machine attached directly under the track. Still doesn’t work.
The switch seems to move well enough manually, and the switch machine seems to work when not attached to anything.
I CAN"T FIGURE OUT WHAT I’M DOING WRONG and it’s getting a bit frustrating.
Anyone have a clue? Is it the power source or Atlas sliding switch button (even though it works when not attached to the track)?
HELP!
David
I found the clue/answer by searching the forums at ModelRailroader!
Peco switches, unbeknownst to me, have adjustable springs giving the turnout its snap tension. You can adjust the tension by moving the spring mechanism closer or farther from the switch rod. (Pardon me if I don’t use the right terminology–I’m new to this).
So, I adjusted the spring and it works!
Thanks!
David
I wasn’t aware the springs were adjustable - guess I’ll have to take a closer look next time I install a Peco switch! I use the Peco switch machines anyway, so this problem’s never occurred for me before - I just make sure that I use a decent 16v AC power supply to run the switch machines - some lower-powered transformer/controller units cannot kick out enough power to throw the switches reliably!
Thanks Daimone! I wasn’t even aware that the springs were adjustable. Am building an American layout set in the 1960s but because of their good reputation, all of my turnouts will be Peco. They look good and line up almost flawlessly. Never had a derailment with my past trackwork with Peco turnouts like I did with Atlas turnouts. Chester Holley (may he Rest in Peace) a wonderful model railroad pioneer who knew Irv Athearn and Bill Walthers, sold me onto Peco back in the 70s.
Since we are on the subject of peco switches, does anyony have an opinion on Peco Track? Is there a greater chance of derailments with the code 75 track for steam engines?
The older Peco switches may not have an adjustable spring – I’m talking over 20 or 30 years ago.
I find that the extended operating wire can be a problem if you use the extension piece instead of the one that was manufactured extended. I use a big blob of gap-filling ACC on it.
I’ve been using the Code 75 track on the last bit on my layout (after I finished all the recycled code 100 from the old layout). The geometry is the same as the code 100 so everything should run through it the same way. Actually, our local dealer said of the code 75, “This time they got it right.” I think it works a bit better.
I have a seperate power supply for my point motors too but mine is dc and I added a big fat capacitor to give it some oomph. It cured a couple of sticky motors.