Help with track selection

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

I have been working on my first layout and have been replying to a number of threads. I’m getting confused so I thought I would step back and consolidate my questions. Sorry if I’m breaking any forum etiquette.

Background:

  • Made the decision to go with HO over N. I like bigger steam and the choices are better in HO.

  • This is my first layout and I like this plan becuase I can lay track run some trains and then start working on scenery and elevation etc.

  • I have room for a 5X10 table in the garage. I have listened to the comments regarding alternate configurations from the island format, but I don’t have wall space. I will have rollers on the benchwork so when my wife moves the car out of the garage I can roll the layout into the middle so I can walk all the way around it.

  • Although I originally planned 22" radius, I have heard the suggestions and am willing to go to a 24" or 26" radiius.

  • I am looking to have a two track main line and I really like the Denver and Northwestern layout in 101 track plans ( #39). From the drawing it indicates the 2 track radii are 24 and 26 1/4. I am going to leave the turntable out. I will also add a staging/yard area approx 2X6 that I can connect/disconnect from the 5x10.

  • I have seen many comments that the plans from 101 are very difficult or impossible to build, and I hope this isnt one. If it is, I would like to get as close as possible to it. I also want to learn how to lay track and roadbed.

I am now at the point where I need some advice:

  1. I have looked at atlas 100 but it only goes up to 22" radius. Should I look at different track or track mfg (remember I new at this) or should I look at flextrack?
2

I do not have access to your layout plan but I can advise you on a few things. # 6 turnouts should be the minimum frog angle for the layout if you plan on running steam. Even a little 0-8-0 switcher has a long wheel base. The larger the radius the better your trains will look and run. A 2-8-8-2 has quite a bit of overhang on small radius curves. Passenger cars look toy like on small radius curves. As for track, Go with flex track. The less joints you will need the more reliable the track will be. Since this layout will be in a garage make sure you paint all the wood benchwork and use good, sound construction practices. If you lay track in cooler/ dry climate leave a gap about the thickness of a match book cover between rails. Do not solder the joiners even on curves. Use a flexible type cement for gluing ballast like Matte medium or Elmer’s cut 3 parts water with 1 part glue. Your garage floor is probably pitched toward the door and your layout will never be level all the time so on yards and sidings sand a slight depression in the center so your cars will not roll to the mains and switches.

That’s all I have for now. Good luck and happy modeling.

Pete

3

Lets see if I can be of any help. Probably can’t help with all and only make suggestions on others, but here goes.

I think you have the right idea, get some trackwork done so you can get some trains rolling, It helps to sit back and watch the trains run once in awhile. Also, it test your trackwork out so you don’t have to rip a lot of work out if the track isn’t right.

The only thing with such a large island is to make sure you can reach all the places that you need to. An access hole can be hidden under a hill or just have a section lift up so you can pop up if needed.

Most sectional track is pretty limiting. Also with flex track you have many fewer joints as places to have power connection problems. In other words, flex track will let you get the radius you need and save electrical problems.

You have a choice code 100 or code 83, 100 is less expensive, 83 is more prototypical, the choice is up to you. There are turnouts in both codes. There are also other codes, less common I think you have to hand lay most of them.

Number 6 turnouts are good if you are running large locos or long cars, if you have space some folks like #8’s and they are becomming more available. Often folks use #6 on the mainline and #4’ in yards and sidings were the trains are traveling slower. If you are planning a lot of long cars I’s suggest a yard of #6’s and use #4’s only on sidings where shorter cars (40’ & 50’) are delivered to industries.

For ordering your track, if you use flex track, it comes as single pieces, boxes of 5, 25 and 100. I’m not sure of your planned layout, but 75’ isn’t much, concidering you need nearly 30’ to go around your table once. Figure as close as you can, but a little extra won’t hurt, gives you something to pratice cutting, soldering, etc. If you are close to

4

Please reconsider your apparent limitation of using sectional track. Learn to use flex track. It isn’t hard…even a dolt like me was able to lay some decent flex after mangling a few measures and cuts. You’ll need a Xuron track cutting tool. They can be found at any decent hobby shop (along with the absolutely essential NMRA track gauge!!!), or order them both on-line. Seriously, there is a lot of fun to be had laying out your own curves using flex track. Just do it.

You should have a graphic and scale representation of your eventual track plan. It is then easy to guesstimate the length of track outside of turnouts. Divide that figure by three to get the 3’ lengths of flex track, add 10%, and you should have all you need plus some mangle fodder.

You needn’t, but I do. No regrets. Make it simple, both for yourself and your engines. Remember, the biggest engine you plan on having at the moment may be nothing compared to the monster you want in a year’s time when the going is great. Plan for growth a bit.

An expanded radius, in the right track plan, may mean as little as shorter tangents bet

5

Lots of good advice given. Some of the best advice given to me was “less track is more”.

Just like Crandell said don’t be tempted to cram as much track into your space, leave room for the scenery, that’s what makes a model railroad.

Get the mainlines up and running and then take your time deciding how you want to layout the sidings, you can always come back and cut a turnout in to the main where you need one. Likewise it’s easy to remove a turnout and replace with a piece of straight track so don’t think you have to tear up a bunch of track to make changes. So jump in and have fun.

I will repeat something that has already been said, it is that important, don’t put track, especially turnouts, where you can’t reach them. This will cause you grief down the road.

7

I would highly suggest consideration of a mountain ridge as a scenic divider, or a photo backdrop to divide your layout into 2 separate scenes, if you can work it into the track plan you have selected.

The reason fro my suggestion is that the layout will then be 20 feet long, because you will create 2 - 10 ft layout fronts (one for each side of your table)

8

I would use code 83 track as opposed to code 100 since it is closer to scale size and there are more products available in code 83. Second, I suggest flextrack instead of sectional track because it allows you more freedom. You can have as tight or wide radius curves as you like. I would soldier the flextrack together before laying it out on the curves as they tend to kink when “rail joined” in place. This causes more derailments. I would suggest a single track mainline with passing sidings. You do not have a lot of room and the inner mainline will obviously have a smaller radius than the outside mainline. I love large steam locomotives. I model the N&W for that reason. However, the tightest radius on my layout (to date) is 38 inches. Articulated locomotives like the Class A and the Class Y DO NOT LIKE tight radii. Also, the larger the radius, the more prototypical your layout looks and the less derailments you will have. Minimum turnout for crossovers should be no. 6 but I suggest no. 8’s for large steam. You can you no. 4 turnouts for industries but not for yards. By the way, have you considered a point to point layout instead of a continious run? A lot more possibilities for operation (running it like a prototype railroad).