Heny Henry Ford is reknown to have said in regard to his Model T:
“A customer can have a car painted any color that he wants as long as it’s black.”
Well, I’m looking at painting undecorated Stewart FT A-B shells at some point and I’m trying to determine which Scalecoat II “black” would be appropriate for that.
Since this will be a locomotive shell I’m assuming #2 & #3 can be immediately eliminated from the list. That leaves #1, #4, and #5.
What is the difference between “Loco Black” and “Engine Black”? My preference would be to have a slight sheen to the exterior but I don’t want it looking like it just left the paint shop “buffed, waxed, and glossy” in appearance. I will be applying some decals to the nose and side and, from what I understand, it is important to have some sheen in order for the decals to adhere well to the paint.
So, do I go with a matted finish (Loco Black), or a satin finish (Engine Black)? Or, is the final “clear finish” coat what determines the overall sheen when completed?
Despite The Shadows singing “Black is Black” back in 1961, black is not at all black. The appearance of the color depends on the lighting conditions - more than with any other color. It all boils down to a matter of personal taste, whether you go for a dark “blueish” black, a tad lighter anthracite or a really dark grey. I prefer the latter one.
Not long ago I repainted a Bachmann E-33 electric shell and used the #2010 black. I thought the results were excellent and the finish was like the “buffed, waxed and glossy” surface, which the Microscale decals adhered to beautifully.
My primary reason for using Scalecoat/Minuteman paints is so that I can eliminate the gloss clear-coat and apply the decals right on top of the paint finish, THEN go on to the flat, matte or semi-gloss clear spray after the decals are applied.
I have used the matte Loco Black 2001 but in that case I was using dry-transfer lettering which prefers the “tooth” that a matte or flat finish provides.
The detail black has a slightly lighter tint so it is more of a very dark, dark, gray. Still, you can lighten up the 2010 black using weathering finishes to highlight details.
After applying the decals you still want to cover them with a clear finish and that is when to decide on the degree of glossiness desired. I like to have some of my passenger locomotives and cars retain a bit of glossiness. I like to see the lights reflect off the sides.
So, for a good base for your decals, go with the glossy #2010 black, then after the decals have set you can choose your final finish with the clear-coat.
I really can’t believe there is no reference for this, given that Reading’s FP7’s where painted black, but two different sites with modelling reference including what paints to use mention hobby paints to use for every color BUT the black.
However - Engine Black is suggested for the open hoppers, and fresh out of the shops open hoppers always show as a deep glossy black in photos, matching the FP7s. Since Scalecoat’s Engine Black is not available in gloss, you probably are on the right track with the plain Black.
I haven’t looked it up but…I’m going to guess that the song you reference was written a bit later than that. Given the style I would think it closer to 1971 than 1961…
Tom
[Edit: I just checked, Ulrich. You are absolutely correct about the version you mentioned. I was thinking of a later version by a different group (Los Bravos) and that was released in 1966. Okay, back to painting black…]
This locomotive’s boiler was painted with Scalecoat’s “Flat Engine Black”, while the cab and tenders’ sides were done with Scalecoat “Engine Black” (which is glossy, although that’s not noted on the label)…
If you want black locomotives and plan to letter them using decals, the latter is a good choice, as it doesn’t get much blacker than this.
If that black is too black for your tastes, you could use the former and either mix it with some clear gloss or, after the paint has been applied, over-coat it with a gloss for decaling.
I would also suggest that, after the decals have been applied, you re-coat the entire locomotive with the same clear gloss: this helps to equalise the degree of shininess of the gloss paint and the gloss of the decal itself.
If you then want a less-glossy finish, apply it over that, and the decal film should disappear completely.
The locomotive in the photo is not completed, and there are more colours to add, along with various clear finishes over most of the loco and tenders, and then weathering.
Black may be black, but not necessarily all the same black.
