I want to get into HO scale trains can you tell me,
whats the best tracks to use and what couplers i should be using also.
Thanks all
David
Welcome, David. Track that has the plastic ballast, or base that is meant to resemble ballast, is fairly costly, although you can make a deal if you order a fair bit of it in bulk. Most of us use Atlas or Model Power, even Peco, flexible track elements that give us much more freedom in terms of the curvature we can get. I happen to like Peco’s Code 83 insulated frog (what are known as “DCC-friendly”) turnouts/switches, and I use nothing but their #6 turnouts in my yard. I also learned how to make turnouts using the rather costly (up front) jigs sold by Fast Tracks.
Micro Engineering makes very good track, a bit more costly, not much, but it is also a fair bit more work to shape the curves you want. It is a flex track of sorts, but difficult to get it to flex smoothly as Atlas and the others do.
Couplers is a whole nuther subject. Many of us simply resort to Kadee #5, or their more true-to-scale #58 or whisker #158. Kadees are metal and very robust. If you have difficulty matching coupler heights from item-to-item, you can get shelf couplers where the shank is split and overlapped either up or down. Also, Kadee sells shims which are often the better solution. A shim can go between the car frame and the coupler eye or below the coupler eye to lift the coupler as needed.
Welcome to the forum.
Crandell
Hi and [#welcome] to the hobby and the forum!
You will get as varied answers to the track questions as there are types of track and modelers. If you are going to run older HO equipment, then you probably want code 100. {the code is the height of the rails-older HO equipment had some wheels with deeper flanges that will ride on the ties of lower height rails}. If you are going to run newer stuff, you are safe with code 83. If you want more realistic track, code 83 is also your friend. SOme will use codes below 83 for yards and sidings.
AS for brand, well, i happen to like Atlas, which is considered the “standard” so to speak. I use sectional track as I am not good at forming my own curves with flex track, though many do that. I also have a very small HO layout {3.5 feet x 5.1 feet}, so flextrack, except onthe curves, is really a waste as it come in 3 foot long sections that can be cut to any size, and flexed into most any shape.
If you are into it, there are a variety of “pre ballasted tracks” such as Bachmann’s EZ Track. get the grey roadbeds with the Nickel Silver {NS} rails as they offer the best track available for MRR. The Black roadbed has steel track on it, which is prone to rusting. NS rules the day. They snap together and provide a stable base if you are going to do something like run your trains on the carpet while building your layout. I tried it in Nscale and didn’t care for the performance of the switches.
Speaking of “switches”, or “turnouts”, many will use Atlas track but use other brand switches as they prefer them to Atlas switches. Many call them “turnouts” to distinguish between the “switch” that operates the “turnout” so as not to get the “switches’ {controlling} switch” confused! There are remote control switches for far away, and manual for up close. You will have to decide which you like or need for your application. AMny like Peco or Shinohara switches.
Couplers…any knuckle couplers will pretty much play well with others, but many prefer the KaD
Hi David… and welcome to the Trains MRR Forum. I hope you will gain all the know-how you’ll need to get started here, and there are a lot of experienced modelers who can give you ideas on how to accomplish your goals.
There are several types of track available in HO scale. The ‘best’ or right track to choose, will depend on what type of layout you want to build.
If you’re setting up a temporary 4’x8’ oval, you can use a variety of sectional track with or without the ballast base, that allows you to configure all types of track plans(You may want to refer to a Track Plan guide by Atlas, for example, available at your local Hobby Shop).
If you want to build something on a larger scale, the flexible type of track is far more popular and allows you more freedom to create your own track plan and designs.
Micro-Engineering(ME) makes really nice Flexible track and even comes with the choice of optional weathered rail.
Atlas, Walthers and Peco also offer a large selection of track and turn-outs, and everyone has their favorite brand, based on quality or features.
Personally, I prefer the MicroEngineering Flextrack, but choose Peco turn-outs with the electro-frog plates. I’m also building custom turn-outs called Easy-Track, but these require a jig and more skill to assemble, and can be more expensive.
Others will choose different brands based on experience or cost.
You can’t go wrong with Atlas track, but I would recommend a Walthers(Shinohara)brand turnout or one from ME.
For Mainline, many modelers use the tried and true Code 100 rail(rail demension) but Code 83 rail has become very popular with many and it offers a little more realistic proportion for
Welcome!
Yep, many people will reccomend the flex track or sectional. The onmly problem with the based track like Bachmann’s EZ, is yoy only get the choice of one size switch. Otherwise, they have a large variety of curve radii and are a great way to avoid kinking. Also, when laying track with flex/Atlas, one reccomends putting cork uner it anyway, so there’s no reason you cannot ballast on the based track like it was cork. The Bachmann track does sit a bit high though
Couplers
There are basically four types you shopuld be aware of.
- Horn Hook: these are an old common coupler, now on its way out. They’re shaped like a hook and are plastic molded. I like mine, but I’m phasing them out. They can be coupled to the knuckle coupler witrh a bit of effort (by lining the knuckle so the claw wraps arpund the edge of the Hornhook and then pushing them to the side until it “locks”) but this can also be a good way to derail a train if there’s not enough slack in teh coupler.
- Spring Knuckles: There’s a variety of makers of these, we all reccomend Kadee. Some couplers use a plastic strip to keep the knuckle closed, but most are now using a small metalsprig to keep the knuckle closed. Look for a metal coupler,that’s a big thing as well. Plasic ones can break, And, if the knuckle is jammed in, don’t be afraid to push it back out, it’s not a loss
- The You guys don’'t like me mentioning this brand of knuckle coupler: Sergent Engineering makes a coupler that is more expensive than the Kadee, but unlike the KDs ususes a metal ball inside the coupler that drops straight down into a whole in the knuckle (inside the coupler casing) to actually keep the knuckle of the coupler closed. This is far more prototypical, and more sturdy than the Kadee because you cannot lose a metal spring holding the cpupler
Ok i should go into more detail i have 3 rooms to build in one is 4x8.
bedroom 13x13
and a spare room 13x9 so i have lots of room
so i will make lots of straight away ,mountains,bridges,tunnels and uphill climes.
Thanks all
David
In that case I would suggest an around-the-walls type layout . If you build a solid layout like 4x8 or 5x9, you will need all the space around it in the 13x13 room to get all around it.
You say uphill climbs: here is another warning:
Make sure you stick with grades of only about 2%, or a 2inch rise over 100 inches length of track. THat is what most reasonbly accomodates most locos/ reasonable train lengths. Keep in mind to go only about 1.5% if you include curves on your way uphill as the curves will add some “drag” to the train that will have the effect of increasing the grade for the train.
If you push your grades any steeper- say 3 or 4% you are only asking for headaches and to pull your hair out as you will find steeper grades just do work with the trains. {ask me how I know…I started off witha 4% grade, then reduced to 3% and after scrapping those two entire layouts, decided no more than 1- 2% for me anymore!!!}
Welcome to the forums and to model railroading.
Since you are new to both, I suggest the first thing you do is set down and do some reading. There are many beginner books on benchwork, wiring, scenery and just plain getting started.
You will have to decide what type of operation you want; continuous running, switching, some combination of the two. You will also have to decide on a location and an era to model. However, remember this is your layout. If you want 4-4-0’s pulling double stack cars or modern diesels pulling wooden passenger cars, you can. Most modelers stick to some loose sort of era and location, others have a specific location and even date that they operate their layout to.
If you educate yourself before you spend too much time and money, you should find yourself ahead of the game.
Good luck,
What he’s alluding to is that on curves, the steeper the grade, the heavier thecar begins to simulate. The engine might see a 50ft car as 6oz on a 2% grade and 12 on a 4%grade.
On a curve, that turns iunto what we call Stringlining. Or Straightlining. Remember Gemoetry, The Shortest Distance between two points is a straight line ? Well, if the back end of the train becomses sufficentlky simulated-heavy enough, the engine will pull the train into a straight line. Then the slack happens because
ok now i know i’m new and all but for a steep grade would you not put 2 or even 3 engins on to pull it up the grade ?
You are correct. For grades you can use several engines together. Some engines will run OK matched together but some won’t. If you want all your engines to match in speed then this is why you go to DCC. I have several DC engines that run together fine and run as many as 4 together. You may also need a larger power pack to run several engines. I have also run as many as 4 Steam engines together. When you have grades to run over you have to drive the train as it will go up slow and come down fast. I would make sure you have a level loop in your layout also so you can set a train to run and not have to watch it all the time.
Bob
Welcome to the asylum! You’ve been given some great answers/suggestions so far, but be warned that you will rarely get a consensus. There are too many variables and one of the best things about this hobby is the ability to “personalize” it so much.
I highly recommend a couple of beginner books. The Kalmbach “Basic…” series (wiring, track, etc) seems pretty good and you can buy it right here (or Amazon), but even better would be checking out your library to see if you can get some info for free. Have fun!
Welcome to the Forums David, It sounds like you have plenty of room for your layout. tart small and plan for future expansion. After 8 years of working on my fifth layout, I am finally getting My dream layout complete with a 23’x23’ around the garage loft, with an inside stairway. This layout was preplanned. but constructed in four phases. Most of us old timers started with DC layouts and are now converting to DCC. I highly recommend that you start with DCC from the beginning. It is now affordable and most of the bugs have been ironed out. If you have some old engines, throw them out, They draw too much current, and are not DCC Ready. DCC ready means that one only needs to plug in the decoder. DCC Equipped, means that the decoder is already installed. Many recent locos also have Sound installed. If you need help with Posting a diagram on the forums, let us know. All photos must be first Hosted in Photobucket, or some other Host. Join a Model Railroad Club and read many of the Kalmbach books on all topic of the hobby. Start with a plan and get down some Code-83 flextrack. I, personally, did not use foam insulation for a base. Maximum reach is 28inches. I have pullout drawers and duck under lift-out hatches, with rivers and harbors cut into the 5/8inch plywood base, and mountains built of plywood arcs, covered with wire screening and plaster cloth. I use Hydrocal Plaster to form striated hillsides and prime and drill holes for trees, before applying the final spray pain to the terrain. Get WodLand Scenic turf and clumps for building shrubs and trees. I have over 600 trees on my layout, 260 yds of track, 6 reverse loops, two yards, two harbors, and two towns (connected by Faller Car System after 8 years of work as a retired HS teacher. The hobby is a little expensive, so read, plan and ask before buying anything. Bob Hahn
Welcome to the forum. Everyone here has pretty much explained all you need to know to get started. Just my two cents worth but READ before you start. There are many helpful books on benchwork, wiring, scenery, and track laying which will be your best friend before laying that first rail.
One problem some people have when they start is that they try to put in too much trackwork. You will find that your original plan may not fit in the space provided. One problem is track turns (radius) I personally try to keep my radii no less than 24" and on average, 30+" if i can get away with it. I have found that anything under 24" radius is a potential derailment in the making, especially with long passenger cars. There are lots of design program tools out there to help you design a quality railroad in the space you have.
To answer your questions, since this is your first railroad, you may want to start out with code 100 flex track rail on cork road bed. I like flex track because it can be manipulated in some of those odd ball twists and turns that can be or become common place when fitting the railroad into the space provided. It’s easy to use and easy to lay in a short amount of time. I don’t care much for the pre-curved track because you have a small choice of radius sizes usually 15", 18" and 22." I also don’t care for the track with built in roadbed. Again it comes in a small range of radius sizes.
As far as couplers go. Use the KADEE metal couplers. I’ve used others that come with some of the kits and find that I always swap them out with Kadee couplers.
Yo’re going to make a lot of mistakes when you first start out but eventually you’ll learn how to build a railroad without rail kinks, too small of track radius, or trains that may hit the side of a mountain tunnel or bu