I have a 4"X3’ long narrow bridge that is used for access to the center of my layout. I have used a brass hinge on one end and fed power to the rails at that end. The bridge bed has developed a warp and needs to be rebuilt. I am considering eliminating the hinge and its alignment problems and making it a wider, lift out section. If I do this, what are my options for supplying power? Scale is HO and power is DCC.
Thanks,
Bruce in the (still 20 below) Peg
A full lift-out will need alignment pins, with matching holes. By using a stereo jack (preferably 1/4" size, for strength) and installing the plug on the lift-out you get both electrical connections designed for the task and bi-directional alignment within a few thousandths of an inch.
Not to belabor the obvious, but make sure your alignment arrangements are installed and working as designed before laying track.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
It is too bad about your twisting frame, Bruce. I take it that you have braced it, and glued the frame members to whatever the track is supported by? In my case, I have used two hinges separated by about 12", and barrel locks at the swinging end. I wired my reversing module to the two barrel locks, and ran feeders to the far end of the span where they are soldered to the hinges, and then feeders up to the two rails.
I found that my original attachments using caulk and wood screws was not sufficient to maintain robust integrity with the foam surface, so I poured Gorilla glue all along the borders where the wood frame ran along the foam above it. Lemme tell ya, it ain’t movin’ no more.
In any event, my only other choice was to do what you are contemplating, and I would have used the stereo jacks for both alignment and connectivity. However, they would have to be embedded in solid blocking on which the module would largely be supported. I am not sure what would be more of a pain, having the blocks sticking out on both sides, or having to be careful around a nicel module dangling at my ankles. Choices, choices.
Bruce, I believe the December 1999 issue of MRR mag had a great article on a lift out and electrical contact scheme. The back issue might still available if you don’t have one saved.
As a safety on a lift or swing section, use a micro switch or equiv. for routing track power to both sides of the removable section to stop any possible accidents
The idea is sound. I would look to something cheaper for a fix. Perhaps a turnout to the drop could be left in a semi-open position, if the design will permit it, and that will leave the approach safe. Or, simply fashion a fold-over derailer along the rails so that the locomotive will lose power. Even a longish track-type nail inserted into a pre-drilled hole centre track after the last turnout would do.
Thanks everyone. I have a copy of the article in the Dec. 99 MR on its way. BTW, I do have a microswitch installed and wired thanks to seamonster.
BB
I too have a hinged passthrough in front of the door into my layout room, I used the 3/4 inch shelf material sold at most hardware stores. (closet maid ? ) I used piano hinge on one end and it hinges downward, hence no scenery on it. on the other end to lock it in place I used cheap deadbolt type locks to align it. micro switch protected of course, flex wire to the hinged end supplies the power. I do duck under it alot rather than swing it all the time, but it has been flawless for me. As I get older ( 60 right now) I’ll swing it down more and more.
Gappleg, if your bridge swings down, where is the microswitch? Mine swings up and the sw. is under and out of sight. Also, you mentioned a piano hinge. How wide is your bridge?
Bruce in the Peg
Bruce, my suggestion would be to rebuild your warped hinged section, using as a base a pair of fairly thick aluminium L-girders (1/8th inch thickness should do it, 3/16th inch would be absolutely bulletproof). Cut them at a 30-degree angle at each end so they will clear the permanent benchwork when you swing the bridge. Spray them an appropriate color - perhaps weathered black, or perhaps a color that matches the fascia of your benchwork. Drill clearance holes through them every six inches and screw #10x5/8ths-inch pan head screws into the bottom of your wooden base material - ideally 3/4" plywood if you have a scrap piece lying around (or buying a 2x4 foot piece from a Home Depot or Lowes runs around $9), but alternatively a piece of 1x6 ripped down to your 4-inch desired width. Paint all four sides of the wood base - two coats - prior to installation. I TRULY don’t believe this thing will warp.
It’s mounted in the face of the fascia beneath the hinge, disconnects when activated by the bridge being down. I used 10 inch wide shelf material , the white painted stuff they sell. It’s tough as nails and does’nt warp. I bought the piano hinge in the same store , just cut it to length the fit the bridge. At one time I had three tracks crossing it, removed one last year to change some things.
Several years ago, when I was working at a microwave communications company, I was planning a layout which needed a lift out/swing bridge. I opted for a lift out design using WR430 aluminum Waveguide. This is 4.3" x 1.7" inside dim’s with .080" thick walls and was readily available to me at the time. I suppose one could easily use steel wall studs as the material to maintain the no-warp characteristics. At the junctions I was planning to use 9-pin “D” connectors for both alignment and electrical feeds for the bridge itself and the approach tracks. (Jumping the feed wires thru the connectors on the bridge and back to the approach tracks, eliminating the need for additional micro-switches and ensuring that when the bridge is out, so is the power to the approach trackage.)
As it turned out, I ended up moving before the layout was even started, so I never proved-out the design.
BTW, Does anyone use these connectors on their layout for power routing on modular type sections?
I would venture a guess that you’d want something heavier for DCC track bus connections today, but these could still be used for switch machines, signal systems, building lighting, etc.
Just some thoughts…
Quote: “BTW, Does anyone use these connectors on their layout for power routing on modular type sections?”
I use them to connect my control panel to the layout–way, way too many wires to use terminal strips. It’s a sectional layout but I’m just using terminal strips to interconnect the sections, mostly due to the cost. One end of each section has wires hanging down with lugs on the ends, the other end of each section has terminal strips. The wires are numbered as are the terminals to match them up. I did this mostly for cost and I don’t expect to be disconnecting the sections too many times.
Lots and lots of really good ideas. Thanks.
BTW, has anybody tried a swing out section? The kind that looks like a gate with the roadbed on the top.
BB
NZRMac, who up until recently was on the other forum, posted pix of his. He has purchased another home, and is moving, so his grand plan, that you may recall was going in a large out-building, is a goner. He signed off temporarily there, but his post, if you can get the search to work to find his photos when he frequented this forum, will be useful.