Hints for a novice building an Atlas Truss Bridge?

I’m trying to build a first, simple N scale layout. I’ve got an Atlas Code 55 Through Truss Bridge. It doesn’t look like it will be difficult to assemble, but I’m not sure how to go about getting it right.

  1. Glue: The instructions say no glue is needed. Should I believe them? If not, what kind of glue should I be using?

  2. Painting: Presumably I should paint the thing before putting in place on the layout. But should I paint it before assembly or after? Before seems like it would be easiest, but I’m a little worried about how the pieces will fit together with paint on them.

  3. Track: I’m assuming I should probably solder together the two sections of rail, despite the fact the directions don’t mention this?

  4. Any important tips I haven’t even thought to ask about?

Any specific help or pointers to articles / videos on how to do this would be greatly appreciated.

I have not built that specific bridge, but i have built four of the Walthers bridges, so let me offer some suggestions to you.

First, I would definitely glue the structure together and not rely on the assurance that the parts snap together securely. It has been my experience that glue is necessary no matter what the manufacturer tells you to the contrary.

Second, I would paint the individual pieces before assembling the structure. Then, once completed, you can always go back and touch up any bare spots or areas that need another coat of paint. That is what i always do. I fit the parts together by hand to see how the structure is assembled and where it needs to be painted and where it does not need to be painted. I generally avoid painting the areas where parts are to be glued together. Gluing painted surfaces together can get messy. Waiting until the bridge is completely assembled before painting it can be difficult, especially when trying to reach the interior surfaces of the structure.

Third, I do not solder the rails together for the track that spans the bridge, but the advantage of soldering those rails is the assurance of electrical connectivity at all times. Rail joiners alone can loosen and interrupt electrical connectivity. Your call on that one.

Rich

I built the now out-of-production Atlas Chord Bridge in HO a few years back. I’d agree that it should be glued together. Depending on how it assembles, it might be a good idea to hold off on the paint until some of the subassemblies are glued together, or you might want to mask the joints with blue painters’ tape before painting. I did mine with rattle-can spray, so I had to be careful about that sort of thing.

For smaller parts, like the railings and walkways, definitely paint first.

One other thing I did for this bridge was to use “bridge track” and add guard rails. I made my own by removing ties from some old brass track, cutting the separators, and slipping them on to the new track with much closer spacing. The brass track then became the guard rails. You can buy bridge track, but at the time there was no Code 100 bridge track available.

Thank you both!

Any hints on glue selection?

  1. Glue - CA or super glue

  2. Paint before assembly and you can always use an emery board to sand off any paint that gets on the glued surfaces.

  3. Make sure there is a straight section of track, about the length of you locomotives leading into and out of the bridge section.

I’d assume this is a plastic kit, so I’d use styrene cement for it. I get the small bottles of liquid Testors styrene glue with the brush inside the cap. It’s not the most cost-effective way to buy glue, but it’s very convenient. Once open, the glue doesn’t have an infinite shelf life, so I usually run out about the time it seems to get weaker.

Apply the glue to both surfaces and stick them together. It will bond very nicely as long as they’re clean.

I agree with Mister B on using solvent-type styrene cement, as it will give a stronger and more permanent bond than ca. I use ordinary lacquer thinner, and for small projects, decant it into an old Testors bottle with the brush-in-cap.
I almost always assemble the model before painting, as I usually paint the finished assembly using an airbrush. If you’re going to brush paint it, use a water-based paint such as PollyScale while you can airbrush using a lacquer-based paint like Floquil. You can also airbrush PollyScale, but when using water-based paints (brush or airbrush) it’s a good idea to first wash the assembled model - I use liquid dish detergent in warm water, then rinse it thoroughly and allow to air dry. This removes any mould-release agents and any skin oils accumulated during assembly.
While I don’t have the Atlas through truss, I’ve used quite a few of their deck truss and through girder types, although the latter have all been modified to deck-type bridges.

Wayne