having the darndest time making a good curve radius all the way through when joining flex track. the last 2 or 3 inches of each piece just don’t seem to want to follow the same curve (22" and 18" radius). MP HO nickel silver. Is there some magic step I forgot about, don’t remember this being such a bugaboo in the past! Thanks for the help!
My way of doing this is setting the track sections in place temporarily then cut the sliding rail (inner) to the most exact length possible.Then I remove them and solder them together while they’re straight.This way they follow the curve radius as if they were a double length single track section.The sliding rail will likely slide short of the other end when straight but will settle correct when you install it.
Use track nails in the holes in the tie centres while you figure out your best line. Then, mark the sliding rail where it is even with the outer fixed rail at the end of that curve. Make doubly sure the joined end, behind you, is well aligned and has no more than a 1/16" gap between the rails.
Remove the section you just nailed into place, slide the sliding rail that was protruding out beyond the end you had trouble with so that it is back sticking out that same end, and use a proper rail cutter, with the right side facing the section, to nip the extra rail you don’t need. Place the rails at the join into alignment and solder them, but leave the rails straight, not curved, or at least, minimize the curvature that your space will allow. Then, recurve it, using caulk this time, or still the nails, although this time as you begin to curve it again, you will have some difficulty getting the inside rail to find the space under the spike heads on the empty ties. That is why fixing the rail that is properly conformed as you go along is a good idea so that you can fix the ties with both hands.
This requires eyeballing it as you go along. You will develop a sense when there is a kink that needs tweaking as you get experience. In any event, soldering the joins for curves on flextrack is the best way to keep everything aligned. The ends that seem to want to stay straighte than the rest of the curve will conform much better if you solder them to the next section.
Another trick is to, once again, use the eyeball to force the end to keep the radius, but place a track nail in the end tie to keep it in place. If there is not hole, pre-drill a hole with a fine bit and you will have no trouble placing a spike through that hole when you need to. I let the caulk below it dry for several hours, and then remove the spike.