If I want a track 12" higher than a main line, I am assuming I need a 32’ lead @ 3 %, which won’t work. I have about 13 to 15’ to work up to bridge. At 2.5% I get around 5 inch climb. If I want to run a consist to make it up, can I do a 3% or a little more. I am thinking 8-10 car passenger train, with A-B powered units, or cab foward with traction tire. There are curves but at 30 degree so fairly smooth.
The layout is 14 x 8, 4 x 6 hole in center. 2 main lines and 1 line that climbs. Just want to know how to climb.
Also at what height do most of you have if you do inclines.
My main line at the summit is 10" above the other track it takes about 20’ out and back to get there, I have gone 1/4 inch up for every 12 inches along (2.08%)
Seems to work ok so far my 2-6-0 and three passenger cars and two ore cars for a test, no problem at all.
I too wanted to get a train up high, but decided to do it with illustion rather than grade. Basically I’m lowering a section of the layout and bridging the mainline across it. The raised grade, which I kept to 2% gets 5" above the main line.
But to answer your other question–again talking like I’ve been doing this for 2 months when in fact it has been only 5 weeks–I’ve found that different locos have different abilities to pull based upon their motors and their gearing ratios. What I’d do is take the trains I’m going to run and build a ramp and see what they can pull. Raise it and lower it util you find the grade you want to settle on.
I kept to 2% because I figure in the long run, steeper grades will increase wear and tear on the locos.
Spacemouse,
That’s the idea!
The picture below is of my “on hold” layout. As you can see, in the foreground, my track starts out at 2" above the benchwork. As the inside track runs to the back, it goes down. The outside track, on the other hand goes up. This gives me 4" of clearance with only a 2% grade.Dave
One way to climb is a Helix, that is a spiral, the curve just keeps going around and around gaining elevation with every turn. The problem is its foot print is big, in HO it would take a 5 foot square area to do. but that’s one way to do it.
Hiya guys, I like your idea Dave, now I have to see if I can put it to use and gain the extra elevation I am looking for.
Here is a pic of my garage before trains.
then when I decided that trains would make a great Christmas, and I finished the benchwork, yes that is an exercise bike to that is used and works great below the train.
and with the layout as a 4 x 8 temp until the rest of the benchwork is finished.
Thanks to all of you and your help, it is coming along.
With the limitations of the size of your layout, and the height you want to climb, I think a helix would probably be the wisest (if not the only ) way to go to get that much height. 3% grade is considered fairly steep and you would need ~33-1/2’ of track length to accompli***hat. Is the 12" height “negotiable”? Could you live with only a 6" climb?
Tom, based on available room and my limited talent so far, it looks like six inches is all I am going to get. Even that is pushing it, but that is a 40’ scale climb I think. If I do that I can pull it off without helix. Maybe with the right scenery, it will look taller.
I have planned an 18" rise on my track plan from the lower level to the upper and will probably have to start over with the track plan, my average % grade is almost 4%. I have been told in previous and other posts that it is too much! Now I am considering a helix, but it requires about 5’ diameter of layout space, in other words a space hog! So back to the drawing board, I still want to maintain the minimum of 18" separation between the two levels.
