i am going to begin to model railroad after a 30 year break. i had a 12 by 15 layout in my first house but couldn’t take it with me when my wife and i sold the house. i kept all the rolling stock and buildings. what i amlooking for is a track layout for my new railroad. i am going to buy an 8 by 20 ft travel trailer, gut it and build my railroad in it. if we sell our farm in the future i will be able to take my railroad with me. if anyone has any suggestions on a track plan they can send me in an e mail i would like to see it thanks dave
One of the Great Model Railroad issues had a railroad in a trailer. It was narrow gauge as I remember but flexing of the trailer had to be taken into account so rock solid bench work would be mandatory.
Your probably reffering to this layout, by Harry Brunk
Up Clear Creek on the narrow gauge: Modeling the Colorado & Southern
http://www.amazon.com/Up-Clear-Creek-narrow-gauge/dp/0961546735
He originally built it in a old used 40’ mobile home trailer but he had all sorts of problems with the trailer flexing and eventually sagging in places over the years it was housed in the trailer, he eventually moved the whole shibang into the basement of his current home, I remember an article about what happened to the trailer afterwords, that it almost fell apart right after it was moved to someone elses place to be used as storage.
I would agree about firm solid supports, including UNDER the trailer, particularly if you have ground heave with frost or snow, and be careful about winds, I would use tie-down anchors on the frame as much as possible least it end up in your neighbors yard after a good gust of wind.
Seems to me that one of those 20 foot shipping containers that get put on the back of a truck or get picked up to be placed on a ship might be a more sturdy choice.
Yes I think the shipping container is a good choice. I would have a concrete slab poured & rest the container on the slab. You can add one of those units that do both heating & cooling.
A friend of mine bought a used 40’ container dirt cheap. He put some vents and an air conditioning unit with a dehumidifyer on the top and uses it for a woodworking shop. He says if he ever moves they send out a truck with a built in crane to lift it on the trailer. As long as it is under a certain weight he can leave most if not all of his tools in it when they move it. Tied down of course.
I agree a container would make a better package. The problem for many people will be, even if it’s only a 20’, is zoning and covenants. Whatever choice is made, it will limit your choice of places it will be acceptable for a semi-permanent location. I presume it’s much prefereable to locate it at one’s dwelling and not in a storage unit.
Need one to build a house for a year? OK. Gonna set it in the back yard until you move or die? Might be more complicated. Heck, even travel trailers can have issues, but containers tend to be increasingly regulated as temporary structures. Something like this may not even be an issue if you live in the sticks, but is definitely something to think about if relocation is a factor.
Welcome to the forums!
A travel trailer would probably have a stronger structure than a house trailer, as it is made to move often. I would still support it more than the wheels. The other concerns of local regulations may have some bearing, most places, if you keep it registered (not necessarily inspected) they are not a problem. It would pay to check so you don’t start something you will have to tear apart.
I have thought of a refrigerated semi trailer. It would be insulated, thus easier to heat and cool. If left on its wheels, it would be a climb to get in and there would be no natural light, unless you put in windows or skylight, but that could be good, as you could control all the lighting.
You could check the Track Plan Database portion of site if you are a subscriber or a good track plan book. I would look at around the room shelf layouts. For continuous running you would need a lift out, tip up or drop down to enter and exit, but there are a number of posts on them.
Keep us posted.
Good luck,
Richard
I’ll agree with Richard, as I believe travel trailers are a little sturdier than mobile homes. That said, either one is subject to wood rotting and metal rusting (or corroding, if aluminum). Old electircal wiring may need to be replaced. Since you’re planning to gut it, I further assume you plan to do any necessary renovations to the floor, walls, “skin”, roof, electrical, etc. This is one case where I’d debate heavily two possible routes. First, as others have suggested, make the benchwork as rock solid as possible, and fasten it as well as you can, which (in turn) would help stiffen the rest of the trailer. The other is to fasten the benchwork securely, but leave it slightly flexible, using foam, caulk, and other “flexible” materials, so that if/when the trailer is moved, everything can flex slightly without causing damage. And leave small gaps in track joints, because if you don’t, I believe the flexing would likely pop the track.
I had planned to do a similar project myself … and still have the trailer frame for the basis of it.
Brad