I am struggling a bit with designing my layout. In order to make the most with my 15x11 space I am leaning towards a 24" perimeter (doughnut) design. I wanted a continuous run layout with 2 or 3 lines. I thought this design would lend it’s self to lots of action with different areas of interest.
Other than having to crawl under one of the 24" side to get to the middle, is there any downside to this type of design. I can easily have 24" & 30" radius and my two children and I could run 2 or 3 locos at the same time (DCC)
Do any of you use this doughnut or room perimeter design?
By doughnut, I assume you are referring to what’s called either a shelf or around-the-wall layout. My layout is a simple 4 x 8, but a shelf layout is what I want to eventually progress to.
How old are your kids? How old are you? The reason for asking is that a duck under may be okay and adventurous for your kids but will grow somewhat tiresome for you or any other adult who will use that room. Glad to hear you are going with larger radii curves. (Another reason for the shelf layout. I can only squeeze 22" curves on my 4 x 8). DCC is just so cool! [:)] [tup]
Is this your first layout? If it is, I’d encourage you to perhaps start smaller and have both you and your kids “learn” the ropes first of layout building BEFORE tackling a larger layout. The one huge advantage is that you can get your track up and running trains much sooner.
Mark, you’ll obviously have to make concessions for the smaller space. But, even if its just a “temporary” set up, you can enjoy the continuous running while you are building the “new and improved” layout. With a 15 x 11 room, a 4 x 8 will allow you plenty of room to “play” at one end and “construct” at the other. You could even incorporate your 4 x 8 as a peninsula on our shelf layout.
Mark, I hope I’m not discouraging you from your venture. I don’t want you to bite off more than you (and your kids) may be ready to chew. Oops, almost forgot. A “lift out section” will be a better design for your pass through than a duck under. Your back and knees will thank you in the long haul.
What you are refering to is more commonly called around-the-walls/room; and is actually very common.
Depending on the space available, you can also include peninsula(s) and/or multiple decks. You can also vary the depth of your deck (with a maximum of 30") to make the layout more interesting.
Not knowing the exact configuration of your space, theoretically, you could have a 48" wide peninsula jutting out from one of the 15ft walls (leaving you with 42" aisles on either side (if you go with 24" deep decks). What I’m picturing is a layout roughly in the form of the upper case E.
One suggestion I’m sure many members here will agree with, is to avoid having duck-unders. Sure, your kids will have no trouble passing under; but you’ll begin cursing it soon enough. Knocking your head will convince you to consider other options. A lift-out, swing-up or drop-down section is a better route.
Mark, Kalmback books publishes 48 Top Notch Plans. The first dozen pages or so shows one how to do what is called doodling by the squares; given space, x by y, this allows one to experiment with different layout shapes on paper. It is a good reference. Also, check out the 10 design tips from an expert column at http://www.trains.com/content/dynamic/articles/000/000/001/376wqlzq.asp
tstage alluded to one of the design tips; “age and duckunders” [sigh]
Good luck and do not get discouraged. I agree with tstage, maybe consider starting with a smaller one while you research and work at that 15x11 layout. This method worked for me - worked on a 4x5 and learned a lot.[:)]
My kids are 5 & 7, I am 40 and I am not looking forward to ducking. I thought about putting in a a gate as Ken shows. I have build an O gage layout and am really convinced that the around-the-walls/room layout is the way to go for me.
So, that said, I think a gate is a must. HOW do you make the track connestions? Any info on making a gate would be much appreciated.
I saw that bascule bridge at one of my local hobby shops (LHS). I believe it runs about $60. If you’re interested in getting it, I can give you their name.
Mark, one concern for me with the bascule bridge is: How “vertical” will the bridge go? 90 degrees? 80 or 75? 90 degrees will give you maximum opening. But what size is that opening? 24"?
If the maximum angle of the bridge is actually less than 90 degrees, then your opening will be proportionally smaller to that angle. These are things to be concerned about - especially if you are going to use it as your main entrance to the inside of the your layout. A lift out bridge may be a more viable solution…or, make the bascule bridge fit on the lift out.
Mark, the reason for raising the point is that I would hate for you to do all that work into constructing the bridge and opening, then have a shirt sleeve inadvertantly catch on the bridge as you walk through, and you end up ripping the whole bridge off and have it cra***o the floor into pieces. Weirder things have happened…
There are many solutions to your duck-under problem, but I do have a favorite. For a modest investment, you can build a steel girder trestle that would lift out when you are not having operating session time. Have the length of track nearest the entrance to the room supported by a 1x4 ripped down to a single or double track width (depending on what you are doing with the track plan in this area). Paint the 1x4 flat black. Buy MEI 50’ (HO) girder 4-packs in sufficient quantity to cross the space. After assembly (girders only), spray paint them silver, or dark grey or whatever you like for steel girders on your line. Glue them to each side of the 1x4. From the side, the 1x4 now appears to be a steel trestle. Later you can add piers under the girders, but this will require another bit of scenery work. In the end, the effect can be quite convincing.
Buy the MEI bridge flex track and install it over the girders. Add the guardrails, and build a refuge or two.
Don’t know if you ran across these sites in your search for the Walthers Bascule bridge - PN #933-3071. I just found out a little bit ago that they “retired” it. (No wonder you’ve been having a difficult time finding one.)
I’ll add my vote to the “avoid duckunders” club. It’s better to go with something that can be lifted or hinged out of the way. A bridge or shallow modeled section is the way I would go.
I once drew up a trackplan for an N scale layout that went around a 10’ x 10’ bedroom. The door into the room, was in a corner with a bump out where the closet is. My plan called for a low trestle over a wetland/swamp. There wasn’t much more than a couple of inches of modelled terrain on either side of the track, but it gave some scenery while remaining small enough to be a manageable lift out section. There was also something there to catch the train, in case the bridge section was bumped, during operation.
That’s how I would do it. You don’t have to model anything on a lift out/pivoting section.
