I was wondering, what are some HO locomotive lash up no-no’s?
Is it OK to have different brands (ie Kato and Atlas) lashed up together?
Is it OK to have same brands lashed up together even if one is six axile and the other four axile?
Is it OK to run trains for a while lashed up–say like a half hour (if you have a circle in your layout)?
Does running locomtives lashed up shorten the life of the locomotives?
These are questions that are on my mind. I am hoping now to receive some answers. Thank you for any answers you may be able to provide.
I run DCC and every once in a while I have to use the speed table to make the locos compatable.
If you’re on DC and their is a big difference in speed don’t do it. If it’s just a little bit of difference put the fastest loco in the front and enjoy the day.
Long before cure all ills and problems with DCC(which BTW DCC does not do) came out we MU’d our locomotives with no side affects on DC. It is MY policy to put the Faster locomotive in the rear.The reason being as the unit bites into the train the speed will be reduce to that of the slower loco.However,if the speed difference is to great it will be better to use 2 locos with near equal speed of the same brand
You just need to experiment. Of the models I own, Atlas, Walthers, and Bachmann seem to run fine together. Some of the Athearn blue box models don’t even run well with each other.
I would never again lash up locos in DC again. DCC is the way to go but you need a fairly good system, something better than the DCC Prodigy by MRC (I have not found away to adjust the speed table if there even is one) is the way to go. I suggest Digitrax or NCE. I’m sure there are other good systems but these are the ones that I feel most confident about…
In DCC, using Vmid and Vmax, all of my locos run at the same speed. Only takes a minute to adjust each one. The key is using a decoder that supports Vmid and Vmax (that is why there are no Lenz or Atlas/Lenz decoders on the layout).
As mentioned above put the faster locomotive in the rear of the lashup if running in DC mode. At low speeds and in switching manuvers, you may see units tugging back and forth with each other.
Brakie, DCC is not a cure all. O.K, but wouldn’t you agree that In this situation it is “exceptionally helpful?”
I don’t know…but based on what my eyes have seen I think that it is so neat that a modeler can take a “high geared” 150 mph Athearn unit, a lower geared 80 mph LL P2K, a lower geared 70 mph Atlas Geep, and a high geared Spectrum unit… patiently program them, couple them together in any order and watch these locomotives cruise down a mainline with no tugging, pulling, or lurching at any speed—backwards and forwards!
Yes, not everyone want DCC, but I’m just pointing this particular aspect out.
AntonioFP45,My DCC system and all 6 of my sound equipped locomotives is in my storage closet…I suspect that’s where they will stay since I won’t be needing DCC operation on the around the walls layout I am building.I will be using my MRC CM20.
I am sorry I even bought the system or installed sound…
One thing not mentioned above, regardless of whether DC or DCC, is to use insulated couplers if the coupler pocket is part of the metal frame of the loco, like the older Athearns. The frame carries the current from one rail. When the engines are hooked up back-to-back or nose-to-nose with a metal coupler such as a Kadee #5, there is a direct short through the coupler. Use the Delrin-shanked Kadees or one of the other plastic-shanked knuckle couplers, and you are good to go.
Brakie, Why??? Did you have a bad experience with the equipment? You don’t like sound equipped locomotives? Well, I respect your view. BTW: I’m building an around the wall layout. Double track mainline. Passenger and freight service, with switching manuever to local industries.
It boils down to what it is the modeler wants his/her railroad and locomotives to do. In my case I want: control of loco lighting effects like Mars or Gyra-lights, to turn headlights on and off, control of individual sound effects, the constant presence of 12+ volts on the track, complete independent control of locomotives, and of course the ability to easily program quality locomotives from different brands to run at the same speed acceleration and de-celertatin rates.
No offense to anyone, but the traditional Atlas DC cab control block system just can’t cut it for me. I’ve been spoiled rotten by having lived near rail lines, yards, and passenger stations…and spending my teen and young adult years watching and “hearing” prototype railroading in action. Gyra lights, Mars lights, the sound of EMD 567s, EMD 645, GE FDL 16s, various horns. All of that is etched “pleasantly” in my memory and I wiant to duplicate that as reasonably close as possible.
So I guess for me it’s sort of a misguided passion.
Steve: Try running the locos on the track not coupled together. You’ll see which ones are faster. I have some that won’t even run if there’s another loco on the tracks. Find out which ones are compatible. A small difference in speed should be OK.
The motors and gears are the key to any loco running, my Atherns run fine together and my LL Proto series as well. Even my older Bachman Spectrum runs well with the Athern locos. I place them back to back and if I use a third loco in the lash-up it faces " forward". In terms of the electricity flow, back to back seems to work well and after time the motors will get “burned” so to speak together and run with each of the pairs of locos.
Try running the pairs you want to have matched up and experiment with different locos to see which ones run better. This works well and looks more realistic if you are running any F-series locos with passenger operations. I have three F series Proto 2000 locos and they are all matched up to run with each other. As I mentioned, the gearing of the locos makes a difference and if the gearing doesn’t match there could be a difficult time for the set, so try to stay with-in the manufacturer type. Another option would be to purchase gear sets and motors that all match…whew ! sounds like a lot of work, maybe something to save for when we are really retired !
The results of many years of expanding to all in-line fly wheel motors from having started with over the axel motors -( old Lifelike, etc. ) has led me to this point, at the price of realism and reliability, expand, experiment and most all---- HAVE FUN !!!
Interesting how different people’s experiences vary. When I first installed DCC on my layout back in 1993, I was in layout operating heaven. And it’s only gotten better over the years. With lights, sound, and wireless throttles, it doesn’t get much better than this!
But that’s not to say I didn’t have any pain along the way. But I can assure you, any pain you encounter can be dealt with and the end result will be worth it!
I’ve learned a lot in 12 years of using DCC and that’s why I am doing the DCC forum clinic on here, and why I put my learnings on DVD. If you are having trouble, there are solutions if you just ask. [swg]
I’ve tended to put the faster engine in front then it’s always pulling the slower engine and eliminating slack issues between the two engines.
I found the idea of the faster one in the back interesting on the theory that the load of the train would equalize it with the faster unit but I run mostly passenger and the load isn’t all that great so I find the faster unit pulling the train and pushing the lead unit creating slack issues in the coupling.
Now, and finally, that QSI has the Regulated Trottle Control", the Mu’d units will match each others speed. The RTC detects drag/no drag and automatically adjust the motor power to compensate. The end result for two locos with different characteristics and causing push/pull, is that the power is leveled out to pretty much one speed for both. I have two Atlas Gold SD24’s that are Mu’d and the smooth operation is incredible.
AntonioFP45 and Joe.The reason I am not using my DCC/Sound system is simply because my layout will be operated solo most of the time and will be built as a extended switching layout and meant for running locals and switching industries.[:D]Another reason is my sound equipped locos consists of 4 P2K GP9s and 2 Atlas Alco RS1s-All C&0…I am focusing more on my C&HV and R.J.Corman… Currently none of these locomotives is DCC/Sound equipped.
The reason I am sorry I bought the DCC and sound is because I never finish building my layout due to the State buying my house.So now I live in a double wide trailer and using the master bedroom for the layout room and for the time being I don’t want to use DCC on a small layout-It will be in a 12’x12’ room and each section will be 10’ long and 1’ wide.
Dale,
Just try experimenting with each engine coupled to the passenger consist and the other loco running uncoupled in front. Switch them around to get the best matched speed. I have found that placing the faster loco in front is worse for the drives of both, especially w/ a great speed difference.
Bob K.
Ok, I’ll give that a try. I’m usually operating on a club layout and the one-way distance from end to end is 1242 feet so it doesn’t take long before one would pull away from the other.