How the heck do I get the running gear off the boiler, or more the boiler off the running gear. I have to be missing something just absoulty stupid… I am going to add weight, and odds are take out the smoke unit too for even more weight.
SP4460,
I have nothing from, MTH, so I can’t help you, should no one else reply with help. Try here:
http://www.mthtrains.com/service/service-home
Cheers, [D]
Frank
Thanks for the reply!
I dont like dealing with MTH they seem to have this “dont care” feel about them. They have not been to helpful in the past. I was looing for some replacement detail parts, and they wanted me to send it back to them… for tender ladders! Also ask them another time for a updated geared driver with a traction tire, they ask for my box part number, and then would not get back to me… On top of that the first time I sent it back for a draw bar pin replacement (and the fact it would not keep the lead driver on the track) it took almost five months to get back. I understand things take time, but AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH! Also they made the drivers 78in wheels on the Gs4’s and Gs6’s… the Gs6 had 73, and the Gs4’s had 80inch.
Sorry rant over.
On a plus side them not being to helpful has made me do my own work on things, and play with brass addon parts… and I am finding that is the real fun of the hobby.
SP4460,
Yeah! I can understand your frustration, it appears some outfits, give the impression,that they care,in adds and so forth, but they really don’t. I was actually looking to see if I could come up with,some sort of diagram, but no luck! I’m the type that would rather fix it myself, anyway.
Good Luck! Should not be too hard to figure out without breaking anything,hopefully.
Cheers, [D]
Frank
Yeah they did not even put a blow up diagram in the booklet. And that was a first for me.
No diagram, no parts and poor service. Sounds like a real good company, to avoid [xx(]
Hi SP 4660,
IIRC, the GS6’s have three screws that hold the upper boiler/cab casting to the lower boiler/running gear. Two are located on the underside of the cab. The third screw is accesed from the top of the boiler and is concealed by a plastic detail part. The MTH GS4’s, J’s, NYC Hudson’s, and NYC Mohawks, all used a similar 3-screw design.
I wish I would have gone with Broadway Limited, but they dont make the Gs6/skirtless 4’s. Friend picked up some BLI light pacifics and man do they pull! If the Gs4’s pulls like that I wish I wish I would have gone that way… plus the Dcs sytem MTH has is just unnecessary. Cab talk? Kill it! Kill it with fire!
[soapbox] and that would explain why I cant find it! Thanks Dave I will do some tinkering tonight.
It is not a rant to tell of your situation with MTH. The driver size and the whistle incorrect sound for the GS4 was a big factor in my not purchasing any of their Daylights. The nose is not correct on the left side of the mars light, at least in the one I viewed. The BLI GS4 looked much better but it does not run well. My two are basically junk shelve models and three others that I am aware of have problems. I use Key brass models to represent my GS4’s in Daylight and destreamlined.
I did purchase the #1 scale Daylight several years ago and it is a delight overall with the proper sound and correct nose and most other details. Too bad it did not scale down on the HO model.
CZ
And plopping down at a fat 24 ouces! Added about 3.5 ounces to, and around the smoke unit to keep the lead driver down… hope it works. Dont get to test it till the 6th at the club.
That is to bad about the BLI Gs4’s I was really hoping they would be better.
See right when they said they (MTH) are putting out a Gs6 I more less… 
I did not find out about the drivers real size untill a month or so ago (and I got it on the first run [:$]). They did not look right from the get go, but I just kind of pushed that to the back of my mind. Now it kind of bug’s the hell out of me… I am no rivet counter, BUT 7 inches on a wheel is a lot when you have been reading Church’s Daylight Bible. It just looks off. Now I am looking at getting brass Gs’s so it will end the OCD haha at a $1000-$1600 its going to be a bit for that.
If you can find them, look for either Key or Balboa/Westside GS-4’s. Well-detailed, nicely weighted and balanced and will take a minimum 28" radius (looks better on 30" or above, of course). I have two Balboa/Westside GS-4’s and I couldn’t be happier. The reduction gear gives the locomotive very good slow speed control, and they will really open up. I saw the MTH GS’s at a hobby shop and frankly, they looked kind of crude against the older brass imports. And I was able to find the brass models at a better price than the MTH, anyway.
Tom
Other then the drivers being wrong, and the brass having more detail. The MTH over all model is vary well built, I mean how they put everythign thing in there is vary well done. I Emailed NWSL to see if they could/did make a update driver kit… wishful thinking i know [:-^] (then I will have to find rods [banghead]) On top of other brass add on bits that could go on I think it still could be a good looking model for what it is. But for all the work I could just go with a Westside and just be done. Heck Idk we will see how good Santa will be.
Tell Santa to check out Caboose Hobbies.
Tom
No luck with NWSL. BUT the added wight work wonderfully, and the pulling power is much better. Plus it can now take a 20 degree curve… and that’s WOW for these norther’s. Went from 8 walthers passenger cars to 17… so I am happy with that on almost a 2 percent.