Ho Scale Broad Curves

While I do not consider myself a “newbie” with respects to model railroading and building a layout larger than 4 x 8, this is the first layout I will be building using “Broad Curves”. I am using “Free Mo” Modular Layout specifications.

The reason for this is the ability to remove the layout from the basement in order to take it to shows or sell it if I like working with this type of specification and get into building layouts for friends etc.

How do you build a template to represent a 30"+ broad cruve and what track configuration parts available from a hobby shop should I be using to accomplish this task? My thoughts are to use flextrack.

I have a 10’ x 20’ space available and need the ability to change modules and relocate the layout. This model will represent a real world business application for I am developing. The railroad equipment items are (14) 85’ railcars, (10) 65’ 16K tank cars and (2) GP/MP Locos. Any assistance anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated.

DrBaron

Hi!

My suggestion is to definitely use flex track, and solder the joints on curves (especially). As far as templates are concerned, you can make them and/or use various types of “compasses”.

On my last two HO model railroads, I used a combination of both. I took a couple of 4x4 foot 1/8 in thick plywood and drew 1/4 circle lines on it, from 18 inch to 36 inch radius - in one inch increments. I then ran it thru a band saw, and ended up with about 18 or so individual templates. REMEMBER to mark the inside and outside radius (before cutting).

I also took a metal (wood would work) yardstick and drilled a hole at the one inch mark, and holes in the 18 to 35 inch marks. This makes an excellent trammel (?), but remember you are always one inch smaller than the number on the yardstick indicates.

Using the above, you are able to draw out your broad curves and easily experiment with different radii.

Oh, one very important note… It is highly advisable to use easements to transition from tangent to curved tracks. This looks much more realistic and is much easier on the trains. I find that if you use cork roadbed, and start at the tangent track center line (doesn’t really matter), the roadbed will tend to “automatically” give you an easement into the curve center line.

One other thing… You would do well to take a trip to the local hobby shop and get a couple of introduction or layout construction books. If there is no LHS around, try Kalmbach website or Ebay.

ENJOY,

Mobilman44

If you can’t get to the center of the circle or a template won’t fit, you can use math and easier measurements instead of Radius. Here’s a link to a “circle calculator”:

http://www.1728.com/circsect.htm

If you are following the Free-Mo standards, you need to use flex track. 30in curves aren’t anywhere close to the minimum 42in (or recommended 48in). Most critical are the end-plates and the standards pertaining to them. Personally, unless you belong to a Free-Mo group, I would think the centered mainline track at end plates restrictive and boring. One tactic is to make a joiner module between Free-Mo and whatever you end up with as “modules”. [Free-Mo standards page]

Also, don’t forget your easements on the curves.

As Doc in CT says, Free-mo standards start at 42" radius, with 48" radius preferred for all new modules on the main line. Curved path on any main line turnout must be #6 or better, bigger preferred. Track on main must be code 83, and be straight for last 6" to module end, and perpendicular to module end. No track closer than 4" to any module edge.

These are pretty tough standards to meet for home layouts unless you have a good sized space (which you apparently do). If you are going to incorporate a Free-mo module in a home layout, often the best way is to have a portion become a Free-mo module, and the rest of the layout, which is not as restricted, serves as a “dock” for the module. Basically, a single Free-mo module by itself usually makes a poor standalone layout due to the need for other modules to combine into a layout with real operational capabilities (other than circling a loop, which Free-mo tries to avoid). I know, I’ve tried designing a Free-mo module set totaling 10ft of length. Anything smaller ended up being primarily a glorified diorama as far as operations were concerned. OTOH, a number of Free-mo modules combine together into some very nice large layouts for real operations.

At http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=107594651459486940738.000463015c016e5fe419a&z=2 there is a map of the various Free-mo groups.

I also highly recommend joining the Yahoo Free-mo